Guest rasteri Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 The rotary encoder is what I was referring in my last sentence which also maybe haven't nothing related to quartz in techs xD These are in vestax and cdx as far as I know. Your solution seems clever, congrats once again Andy! The brushless DC motors in all direct-drive turntables have positional hall sensors so the control circuit knows which coils to energize. You can either derive the speed from the hall sensors like Technics do, or add a rotary encoder like Vestax/Numark/SuperOEM do. Brushed DC motors like in the PT-01 don't have hall sensors so you have to either use back-emf or a rotary encoder. (You can also use back-EMF on BLDC motors but it's a pain in the arse) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 It could be possible to attach the encoder like your old scratcher project?http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=scratchcontroller Or in the space between platter and base maybe? Some dremel work to transform the inner disc into encoder ala m-audio x-ponent...https://instagram.com/p/BJWLsPHDvxs https://instagram.com/p/BP0ljr9FTBA https://instagram.com/p/BP0lki-lrkX https://instagram.com/p/BP0lldiFgx2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Yeah something along those lines. It'd be good if there was a solution without dremeling the case, like maybe run the encoder wires down the space in the center or around the motor or something. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Maybe a flat cable over the motor part and the sensor inside the inner cicle. I could imagine a second layer with the marks attached from the inside and avoiding dremel need... it could work if the space lets fit the flat cable and the sensor pcb fits under the platter.Anyone with an open unit want to try it? Or almost check space...? This djdiggla pic could be inspiring for someone ^^https://instagram.com/p/BP0wYsYFqQX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74excrl Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 hello all. After all the support on this thread I decided to install the rechargeable battery mod on the PT01S. I have a question maybe someone can help with. With the lithium battery on, The PT01S power light stays on whether the on/off button on the turntable is switched. The only way to turn off the turntable is by the switch on the lithium ion battery. I just want to make sure that is the right way and I didnt fudge something up. Thanks again. Next the preamp and tonearm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74excrl Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Has anyone done a rechargeable battery mod to theirs yet? what mAh did you go for? And what kinda life are you getting out of it?How many hours for example? also was this with or with out the extra preamp for the tonearm mod? that enough questions? how about now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi1jacobi Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Thought I'd start a new thread for this. First step is to jot down a rough schematic for my PT01 so planning mods will be easier. Note that not all the components have the correct names yet. Some things to note : This is for the PT01USB version, which has an extra connector (TE13) on the main board that sends the signal to the USB board, and the motor control circuit uses a different IC. The circuit looks broadly similar to the regular PT-01 however and the components have the same names.The top section of the schematic is the main audio/motor board, the bottom section is the power supply/IO board.Connector TE11 connects to TE12 via the black ribbon cable.The phono preamps are a common-emitter class A transistor design with no proper RIAA equalisation. This might actually be a good thing as most of us turn the bass down when cutting anyway.The L/R connectors on the black ribbon cable are actually AFTER the power amp. Wiring a fader in at this point probably isn't a great idea as they aren't really meant to handle that kind of power, but I guess if it works it works.A better place to put faders would probably be after the DC-blocking caps C8/C18, or perhaps after connector TE8 (the tone/volume knobs).For an AUX IN port, putting a couple of resistors in series with the AUX and connecting it to TE8 pins 1 and 3 (or 4 and 6 if you don't want it to be affected by the volume/tone knobs) would probably work.Next step is to reverse-engineer the motor control section, hopefully ultrapitch will be doable. Wussup Rasteri, was wondering if I could pick your brain in regaurds to your diagram..so if all else fails in finding fader ports (like on the scratch)on my 01, I want to install my raiden inside the case...I soldered these jacks to plug into the fader.. https://instagram.com/p/BP5eDZpB7t9/ There are 3 conductors: left, right, and ground.. 1 jack would feed audio to the fader from the Bluetooth module and the other two are for in/out on the fader. Im trying to narrow down the best place to connect them to the 01... do you think splicing into the big ribbon or connecting on the c8 & c18? And in the end, could I plug in headphones in the headphone jack and still hear everything? You know, like on those late nights when everybody in the house is sleeping but I have a crazy itch to scratch,lol..also would I just join the grounds from all the jacks and ground them to a grounding point on the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Remember delete the last / of instagram's links to get them embedded in the comment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi1jacobi Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Oh yeah, thought I forgot something:p 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDropzDead Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Maybe a flat cable over the motor part and the sensor inside the inner cicle. I could imagine a second layer with the marks attached from the inside and avoiding dremel need... it could work if the space lets fit the flat cable and the sensor pcb fits under the platter.Anyone with an open unit want to try it? Or almost check space...? This djdiggla pic could be inspiring for someone ^^https://instagram.com/p/BP0wYsYFqQXNot sure if i got this right, but from i just thought if it would be possible to just print out a blackwhite stripes sticker and stick to the side of the platter and put a optical "reader" diode on the opposite side of the sticker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 There are 3 conductors: left, right, and ground.. 1 jack would feed audio to the fader from the Bluetooth module and the other two are for in/out on the fader. Im trying to narrow down the best place to connect them to the 01... do you think splicing into the big ribbon or connecting on the c8 & c18? I'd connect them after C8/C18 since the raiden will want an AC-coupled signal. So yeah splicing into the cable would be fine. And in the end, could I plug in headphones in the headphone jack and still hear everything? Yes. also would I just join the grounds from all the jacks and ground them to a grounding point on the case? Not on the case no, either take ground from the power supply or somewhere on the main board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi1jacobi Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 thanx mayn! Gonna give it a go when I receive the rest of the pieces.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexinoodle Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Isn't that the project where he keeps refusing to make deals with companies because he wants a bigger licence fee, all he will do is price himself out of his project being nothing more than a costly hobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I miss the history when djtech teased a copycat and them start trying to clean the mess, until these message. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDropzDead Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Can anyone tell where i can solder the wires from the bluetooth decoder boards audio-out to(Numark PT01 USB(NOT the scratch version)?Cut the wires from TE8 and just solder it in between?Resistors or anything needed(its both line signal so i don't think so)? Update:So i tried to connect the decoders audio-out to to the TE8 cable, but i only heard weird noises. Another question: The 3pin plug on the USB-out board is audio-out only, right? Update 2: Tried audio-in AND audio-out.both give me the same weird noises with or withour the TE8 connection. What am i doing wrong here? o.O Edited February 1, 2017 by DJDropzDead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 is it possible to install the Jesse Dean PT01 Scratch Fader into the OG PT01? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi1jacobi Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 If it is, it hasn't been figured out yet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Can anyone tell where i can solder the wires from the bluetooth decoder boards audio-out to(Numark PT01 USB(NOT the scratch version)? Cut the wires from TE8 and just solder it in between? Resistors or anything needed(its both line signal so i don't think so)? Yes you'll need resistors. You're mixing the signal so just connecting the two outputs together could damage them. I posted one potential solution earlier in the thread - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJDropzDead Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Can anyone tell where i can solder the wires from the bluetooth decoder boards audio-out to(Numark PT01 USB(NOT the scratch version)?Cut the wires from TE8 and just solder it in between?Resistors or anything needed(its both line signal so i don't think so)?Yes you'll need resistors. You're mixing the signal so just connecting the two outputs together could damage them. I posted one potential solution earlier in the thread - thanks, i'll try to figuere it out. Hopefully i can put it to use with my limited knowledge of electronics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi1jacobi Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) The jacks I made are faulty... just gonna cut some 3.5mm jacks in half Edited February 3, 2017 by Obi1jacobi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indigno80 Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hi guys, I'd like to install a preamp with the nanofader pcb... Is my drawing correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obi1jacobi Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 So I found this... https://instagram.com/p/BMYKnyWAMmp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hi guys, I'd like to install a preamp with the nanofader pcb... Is my drawing correct? Yep 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indigno80 Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Thanks Rasteri! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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