Mutis Mayfield Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodric Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) Hello everyone, would it be possible for anyone to tell me what is the name of the wire/cable that connects the fader switch to the board? One of the times reassembling my PT01 Scratch after cleaning the Jesse Deans Fader, I accidently smashed and cut the wire with the screw that goes near the fader. I managed to get them reconnected with a twist on the wire and some tape, but I would like to buy a new wire to replace it, even though it is working now. It's the white and yellow wire that connects the fader to the board, and goes around the hole for the bottom screw.And where can i buy it? Any electrical store? Or any website to order it from? Thank you so much for helping out a noob. Rodric Edited June 19, 2017 by Rodric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexinoodle Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 piDeck or something ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 https://instagram.com/p/BVVGmjSgv68 piDeck or something ?It seems but idk. Just posted at focus fb group... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicfreak Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) A few days ago I bought a second hand Ion iPTUSB, which is the same as the Numark PT01 USB. Only a different colour. I've scanned the whole topic, nice that you're all modding this little thing. I'm not a DJ, just want to listen some music on a battery powered device. So the accu mods are handy, but all these faders, I dont need them (sorry).I'm specially interested in the tonearm. It would be nice to mod that thing, allthough I have no 3D printer. So maybee glue some coins on the contraweight to bring back the needle pressure back from the currently 6 grams to let's say 3? The cantilever of my stock needle is completely made of plastic, so I've ordered a very cheap cartridge/needle on AliExpress, but with a metal cantilever. I think this is the same cartridge as the stock one. Edited June 29, 2017 by musicfreak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abstrkt.theories Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 https://instagram.com/p/BVVGmjSgv68 piDeck or something ?It seems but idk. Just posted at focus fb group...It is Pi, if you look at the pics of the mp3 decoder faceplate he routed out spots for the ethernet and USB ports of a raspberry pi. You can see in another one of the pics he did a hdmi panel mount on the other side plate. First pt01 I've seen with a pi in it. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 https://instagram.com/p/BVVGmjSgv68 piDeck or something ?It seems but idk. Just posted at focus fb group...It is Pi, if you look at the pics of the mp3 decoder faceplate he routed out spots for the ethernet and USB ports of a raspberry pi. You can see in another one of the pics he did a hdmi panel mount on the other side plate. First pt01 I've seen with a pi in it. Thanks for sharing.Pi for sure but the question was about "piDeck" or another developmenthttp://pideck.com/ I think is piDeck but the comments say pidvs...https://djworx.com/pidvs-raspberry-pi-based-dvs-alternative/ Edit: confirmed piDeck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 A few days ago I bought a second hand Ion iPTUSB, which is the same as the Numark PT01 USB. Only a different colour. I've scanned the whole topic, nice that you're all modding this little thing. I'm not a DJ, just want to listen some music on a battery powered device. So the accu mods are handy, but all these faders, I dont need them (sorry). I'm specially interested in the tonearm. It would be nice to mod that thing, allthough I have no 3D printer. So maybee glue some coins on the contraweight to bring back the needle pressure back from the currently 6 grams to let's say 3? The cantilever of my stock needle is completely made of plastic, so I've ordered a very cheap cartridge/needle on AliExpress, but with a metal cantilever. I think this is the same cartridge as the stock one.You should check out http://bihari.bigcartel.com/ Tonearms, preamps, easy install, No soldering. My next endeavor is to upgrade my tonearm on the pt01. Then that may conclude the modifications on this unit unless newer versions of mods are released. I may replace my battery... I believe Bihari is working on a new battery mod as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I'm not a DJ, just want to listen some music on a battery powered device.If it's just about "listening to music", why do You want to modify the tonearm? The tonearm is well made and ideally suited for hifi purposes. Switching to a better cartridge is like opening Pandora's box: You need the cartridge, a new tonearm, and a phono preamp. r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortableModManiac Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi everyone. First post here but I have followed as much as possible. I have been modding audio and video stuff for a few years which then after getting a portable fader started on old record players modding them to run on USB power banks etc. I've finally got a PT01 Scratch which is the first thing I want to mod that's not a cheap or second hand player which has made me more cautious about tearing it apart! I know that the scratch switch is meant to be removed and swapped around for hamster etc so am I right in thinking that if I take the switch out completely and cover the hole with a 3D printed plate that the warranty is intact? I am probably dreaming and the warranty is going to be gone soon but I have seen the Mixfader dock and the thing comes with a breadboard type jumper wire. I have asked on Instagram and think I have an idea of what the wires for but I am still unsure if I can bypass the switch, remove it and then cover it without the circuit and wiring being messed up. Anyone know what the wires for exactly and if you have covered this before I'm sorry I couldn't find any info. I am more interested in just bypassing the switch not replacing it but I have a feeling it is a part of the wiring and not that easy to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Pretty sure the warranty is axed once YOU open up the deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortableModManiac Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Pretty sure the warranty is axed once YOU open up the deck.Even if you are reversing the scratch switch? Oh I will no doubt void the warranty soon anyway so I may as well go for it. If the switch is removed the cable that goes into it will that stop the connection? The little jumper wire thing looks like it bridges the cable almost linking the left and right from the switch. Any ideas on where to bridge? I have loads of the wires about so think I can do my own version of the Mixfader dock just don't want to wire up the wrong parts and short it or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 If I remember correctly the VCA control signal has a pulldown resistor so you shouldn't need to do anything to disable the switch other than unplug it. If you have problems connect pins 2&3 of the 4-pin connector. And if your 01scratch breaks just put the switch back in before you return it under warranty, Numark won't be able to tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortableModManiac Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 If I remember correctly the VCA control signal has a pulldown resistor so you shouldn't need to do anything to disable the switch other than unplug it. If you have problems connect pins 2&3 of the 4-pin connector.And if your 01scratch breaks just put the switch back in before you return it under warranty, Numark won't be able to tell.Thank you. I'm not normally so scared to mod but I usually work with cheap hand me downs. I've been working with a charity shop record player and I have got it running on USB so I can transfer the skills to the PT01 Scratch hopefully. I am surprised that it will run DVS using a Mixfader and serato 7" so I am enjoying the possibilities it has out the box. I am loving it so far and for the price now have a DVS system that will play my crappy remixes! I have been working on mods and modding learning from failure lol. I have enough knowledge of modding to hopefully fix any mistakes but going from unbranded turntables and working out how to update them to the PT01 Scratch which is a set way is unusual for me as I either mod something or fry it trying which is more likely! Anyway I have picked up some knowledge of using the PT01 that translates to the record player I have removed from a hifi and added a USB PCB too. I have been out drinking and shouldn't be online lol so sorry if this makes no sense! Sober I'm not as clumsy lol. But I just set up a DVS Mixfader iPad Scratch with the practice yo cuts serato and I am loving it! Anyway I hope I can add some help with the modders, 3d printing or other mods to add to the awesome work so far. I am experimenting with stuff all the time and if anyone has any ideas on printed stuff I am happy to help. If you can bare with me on the stupid questions I can help with printing or other mods! Hopefully I have introduced myself and I am going to dive into modding the pt01 Scratch soon. I am just saying I'm willing and able to make printed parts and components if anyone wants to work with ideas. Right I'm off to bed before I open the PT01 Scratch drunk and get too creative! Love the work you have done through this thread and I will be annoying and questioning the same old stuff. Maybe I have knowledge of vintage record players and how to get them to be USB output and 5v to 9-12v that may be of interest. I got a vintage record player hifi unit and removed the whole thing and then converted it to USB and the tonearm is now digital. Cost £3 and is probably useless but it is Mixfader compatible and that's all I need! Right I am going to shut up and sleep. Hoping that I can exchange information I've picked up and I can ask questions with the right terminology and not be too newb! Peace guys you are awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raynesxsupreme Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 Hey you guys. It's great to see this forum topic still alive and well, I have had a quick flip through and will do so in greater detail when I get the time. However, I am just inquiring quickly to see if there are any knowledge and expertise around that can help with my mod ideas. I finally copped an Ion iPT USB (Numark PT01, as you all know) and have a JDDX2R fader. What I wish to do is install auxiliary input so I wouldn't have to use an external speaker with my setup and my fader output could be routed into the turntable aux input to finish the chain and I can cut on the stock inbuilt speaker. Would this theory be possible at all? I have quickly skimmed some posts at the beginning of this forum and have seen something from Rasteri regarding the removal of the C8/C18 areas of the board, but unfortunately I cannot read or understand circuit diagrams too brilliantly as I may as well be a complete beginner at this lark and just an enthusiast who hopes and prays he doesn't royally cock anything up in the process. In doing this mod I was hoping I could also run a DVS setup on a smartphone and tablet also, in theory I guess it should work, please tell me different if it will not. Please see link for explanation of setup - - I am unsure whether I would require something like a headphone splitter for the input to share the headphone output from the tablet as well as turntable itself into the fader input. I hope this makes sense to you all, I do apologise that I can be crap at explaining things at the best of times. Haha! I am also desperately need the start/stop button. I have researched either the latching (easier) mod, or the arcade mod (slightly more time consuming and more chance of hashing up the turntable casing with a drill bit for the large button. Haha!) and will get on to that as soon as I can. However, I do wish to have the MP3 Decoder board installed and have copped one similar to what the Scratch Toys chap had originally and have followed his youtube videos. As far as I'm aware it seems a fairly straightforward installation on the PT01 Scratch Model via linking the decoder board via three different cable sets across some boards inside the turntable to daisychain it together to get it to work. One of those boards looks like the scratch switch. My question is how would you go about fitting a decoder board for an OG PT01 USB? I love the whole portablism scene as its a very cost effective way of getting into turntablism. Money isn't always on my side at the best of times and I have been copping components cheaply from eBay via China and waiting four weeks for them to show up. I can justify the wait considering I am getting bits for next to nothing. I will hopefully cop a 12V latching relay board for about £1.80 and an arcade button for about £5. Which is 75% cheaper than some of the ready made mod kits you have floating around the internet. Failing that a latching switch is about £1.50 from the UK. My decoder board cost around £1.80 also. Huzzah for cheap electronics! Haha! But yes, if anyone has any knowledge in wiring things up I would be greatly appreciative thank you. I copped a couple PWM motor switches and step up boards which I no longer need, if anyone has any use for them hit me up so I can move them on to a worthy home in someones turntable. I reside in the UK. One final discussion is this video - - I have seen which uses Rasteri photos of the C8 & C18 capacitor area of the board to install a JDDX2R internally, one would presume that the white snap cables removed from board to complete the mod are then put together again in order for the turntable to work? (I hope that makes sense) I have been pondering this mod alongside a straight tonearm with the pin removed so it moves a full 90 degrees if my aux input mod idea doesn't go according to plan, if there are any further steps required other than this video for the internal fader mod if anyone could let me know please that would be great. Many thanks once again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 A few questions that arose from looking at the "audio" circuit board:- The speed selector is actually two 3-position buttons in one (parallel). Why is that?- The "tone" poetntiometer is stereo. But it seems that they only use one channel?- Same for the "volume" potentiometer? r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 - The speed selector is actually two 3-position buttons in one (parallel). Why is that? One pole of the switch handles the speed, the other handles the torque - different speeds (apparently) require different torques. - The "tone" poetntiometer is stereo. But it seems that they only use one channel? - Same for the "volume" potentiometer? Really? That's surprising, I'm sure on my pt-01 the volume and tone controls are stereo. I'm 100 miles away from it, heh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jelp Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Hello I'm new to the forum and electronics in general. I'm wondering if anyone can help me. I've been working on a (passive) portable fader for my PT 01 USB. I got circuit working, but I'm kinda lost on how to ground it or if it's even necessary? I have tried combining the grounds of the inputs and output, resulting in the signal running through. Is ground necessary? If so do I "lower" the ground signal somehow or...? Best regardsA total noob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 finally ordered my shure for the pt01. final mod i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Laurís made a update at gofundme but not much info delivered. I hope the project find some investment since 52 bakers doesn't seems too much from POV related to portable community... https://www.gofundme.com/help-me-make-the-7ps?viewupdates=1&rcid=r01-150417006195-1081a12a281946d2&utm_source=internal&utm_medium=email&utm_content=cta_button&utm_campaign=upd_n Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 I am more than happy about having finished some ideas that have been bugging my mind since a while. I never liked that "tone" knob, so I decided to "put it to rest", and move the "speed selector" to that place. The less buttons, the better. All the board's parts are actually still in place, however the "tone" potentiometer's lever was chopped, and the "speed selector" was heavily chopped/modified. The rest is done through a few 3d-printed parts, including new buttons for volume/pitch. Same applies to the Start/Stop button "flush" install, which is a modified Sanwa button with 3d-printed FLAT cap (on the quality caps like Sanwa, You can take the cap off). I never liked the arcade buttons' round top. It's not all finished yet, just a dry-build. There's some more parts I made, the platter and the headshell, but I have elaborated on these more than enough in previous posts...I had intended to cover the whole thing with a decal in the end, but the more I actually worked on it, the more I liked the idea to keep it look "stock, with an unflashy twist" (even though I like that "rough" or "used" look of the Start/Stop, I believe it needs a final paint job). Little video, showing the functionality (and some really horrible scratch skills):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKIp27xqcMg Longer version which also shows how You can install a platter within seconds (grab the ring from the top, not from the bottom):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUvfgNJ0Avo One pole of the switch handles the speed, the other handles the torque - different speeds (apparently) require different torques.Ah, so one controls voltage, and the other one currency? I finally understood why there are 2 switches visible in Your circuit diagramm (which I'm extremely thankful for). r 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 I just upgraded my tonearm to a bihari + shure m447. I'm curious though, the tone arm on my pt01 always felt loose. And now even with the new tonearm, it feels loose. Is there a way to tighten this up? Here is a video for reference:https://youtu.be/1B4s_Z24U7Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil98 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I just upgraded my tonearm to a bihari + shure m447. I'm curious though, the tone arm on my pt01 always felt loose. And now even with the new tonearm, it feels loose. Is there a way to tighten this up? Here is a video for reference:https://youtu.be/1B4s_Z24U7Q you could use washers to make up for the slop. the shaft is maybe 2mm in diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yopieliu Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) . Edited September 25, 2017 by yopieliu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Handytrax service manual from Focus fb group (Mark Hallonquist) courtesyhttp://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/vsm-handytrax_usb.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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