virak

I just ordered 8x N44-7's from https://www.rubadub.co.uk/ They have more in stock, but I don't know the quantity.. http://www.mcqentltd.co.uk/ has exactly 8x N44-7's in stock.

I think you're referring to the M44C's (blue styli). Those things actually track better than M44-7's, at least the "improved" version with a flip-down stylus guard. Never noticed increased record wear from them. More neutral sounding than M44-7's, too.

Juno have N44-7's in stock. 2 per customer.

https://djworx.com/shure-end-phono-line-rip-m44-7/ This is not good. Except for Ortofon.

I've got a 1st generation SA-5 with failing line inputs. It affects Line 1, session, and strangely only the left channel of line 2. Any idea what's going on? Could it be as simple as poor solder joints? The mixer is perfectly fine in all other aspects.

Nice idea! Kid Koala use a similar system, but I think he just use a regular ruler.

Get some good, straight armtubes and switch out the S ones? A bit of work, but cheaper than a focus arm. BTW, does anyone know if Numark arms has the same outer diameter as Technics'?

Yep.

I've asked Ted_Sparks: http://www.asisphonics.net/ubb/ultimatebb....t=000140#000002 Can someone influental make him reveal the 360 mod? And, yes, I tried the switch mod on the XS-8: http://www.asisphonics.net/ubb/ultimatebb....t=000075#000000 The XS-4 thread: http://www.asisphonics.net/ubb/ultimatebb....t=000035#000000 I didn't want to cluelessly mess to much around with my brand new mixer at the time, so I just put the whole modding thing on the backburner.

There's some posts on asisphonics.net regarding a switch for an instant sharp cut, but the mod has it's ups and downs. I guess the curve controls on the XS-8 could be improved by changing some resistors. I've heard that people have done it on the HAK360 ups, but I don't know how, as I don't know shit about electronics

What's the price for a P'n'G in the UK nowadays?

With the PCV-plate in my XS-8, I've got 1mm cut-in on each side, and the click is a nice "click", not the horrible Vestax "CLANK". The XS-8 doesn't have a CF-type cut on it's sharpest setting, so IMO it's not really worth the bother to clickplate-mod the ups. I did try it out, though. If you have the option, try it out for yourself. You might like it.

Yep, got both. I obviously prefer the XS-8, as the XS-4 is a very stripped down version of the former. The XS-4 also have very bad upfader curves (fades from 1-3, then full volume), I've modded in curve controls, but I'm not quite there yet. They both have interchangable Ecler PROFaders all around, and as far as I can tell, same soundquality (really pisses on Vestax). The XS-8 has a session input with gain, and the XS-4 has an aux input with no controls whatsoever. I have no clue regarding the use of effects. I think the manuals for HAK320 and HAK300 should be easy to find online, they're excactly the same as XS-8 and XS-4 (sans faders and chassis). Google it up. And yes, a PCV click-plate worked in my XS-8, but not in my XS-4.

Those squares were made for the 320's Panasonic faders. The XS-8/4 has Ecler PROFaders, so it's a possibility it won't work out very well. Has anyone here tried those in a a Tascam or HAK310/360?

A PCV clickplate worked brilliantly in my XS-8. In my XS-4 the PCV plate didn't work out (it was like 0,001mm dead space). I wasn't aware of any differences, but I just compared an Alps and a PCV clickplate, and the slots in the Alps is approx. 2mm longer. So now it will go straight into the XS-4. I love that mod

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> It's a fluid damper. www.kabusa.com (I think it's basically one guy) produces and sell those, plus a lot of other mods for the 1200's (hi-fi applications).

Yeah, of course, but who's seriously going to be practising on the bus? I'm thinking it could be cool for diggin' and playing around with. Of course I wouldn't consider a modded Phillips portable a serious tool for turntablists. Would be fun to make one, though. Cheap fun.

I found those pics on a japanese Denon site. Btw, a lot of those old portables, e.g. by Phillips, are driven via an idler wheel, so they will probably have a bit more tourqe than a beltdriven player. They also have detachable headshells, so it might be possible to somehow mod an M44-7 into them. Now if anyone could jam a channel from an $10 UMX-3 into one, and run it off batteries...

The upfader curves really suck, though. Anyone know a mod to make them more linear?

Couldn't agree more.

Wrong. They are made of industrial diamonds. Not very blingy, but still diamonds, though. And to get slightly back to topic (haven't got pics): Currently: 2x Technics SL-1210Mk2 1x Technics SL-1200Mk2 Tascam XS-8 (clickplate-modded) Tascam XS-4 (currently with a heavily modded PCV fader) Technics RP-DJ1210 Pioneer SE-205 (old-school headphones) Shure M44-7's, M44C's (the ones w/ blue styli, they're dope as f**k), Whitelabels, SC35C's plus some other bits'n'pieces. I really suck at scratching, though.

I put an Ecler PROFader in my 07, it's doable.Curves work and all. You'll have to sort of reverse the PCV into Ecler mod on asisphonics.net (follow the tracks on the fader). I can't post instructions, as the fader is now in a friends 06, and I have no diagrams on the mod. The main problem is the connector plug on the fader. I didn't have a male 4-pin plug that would fit the vestax, so I had to open the female plug on the 07, and make a direct connection (It's reversable, though). The PROFader fits the Vestax click-plate as well. Good luck.

Regarding the Whitelabels: The stylus is the same as the one for M35X (the techno/house cart), and the factory setting is for overhung S-arms. That's probably why they're skippin'. Now, the basic concorde-style cart is set at 52mm, which is perfect for overhung arms, so they will always be set up wrong on a straight arm, skipping and generally fucking up the vinyl. But the neat thing with the Whites is that one can adjust the overhang. 50mm is correct for an underhung straight arm, so just loosen the screw on the cart, and pull it back 2mm and tighten.