virak

This might interest you:

I believe he's still using an Isonoe ISO420.

BTW, there's a LED on the UPS board that lights up when it's powered by batteries. This will slowly drain the batteries, so I removed it.

Soooo, six months later... The board works perfectly. Powered through the USB-C port or via 1 or 2 18650 batteries it outputs 9V to the battery wires. I also connected a 9V to 5V converter after the UPS board, which feeds power to the halo light on the start/stop button (a digital switch was already installed when I bought it) and the bluetooth board. The bluetooth board is controlled by a flipflop switch, the button for it has a halo light connected after the flipflop switch, so it light up when the bluetooth board is powered. It' all working fine, except for a quite a bit of interference from the bluetooth board. So I need to sort that out.

Got a Rane SL2 for $30 today

Stumbled over a sale on Reloop RMX Innofaders, and bought the two left in stock. I don't own any Reloop mixers, but principle it should be possible to make them work in other stuff, right? Total was $40 shipped, so I can live with the loss if it doesn't work out.

Parts ordered, now for the long wait. Decided to go for the 9V version and connect at the battery terminals. I've also ordered a bluetooth module, USB-C port, some nice halo switches, a voltmeter, a 9 to 5V step-down board, electronic switch for the BT, some wires etc. Total cost ~$30

Yeah, I've come to the conclusion that I'll simply just buy it and report back.

So, I got myself a second hand PT01 Scratch for weekends at the cabin, and would like to modify it for 18650 batteries. Is there any reason not to connect this module (12V version) at the main power input and power the PT01 via a cell phone charger instead of the wall wart? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004863246771.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.35e71a8ckmZKHE&algo_pvid=a8f74873-a9a0-48ab-aeb3-073978b2e7fc&algo_exp_id=a8f74873-a9a0-48ab-aeb3-073978b2e7fc-0&pdp_npi=3%40dis!NOK!34.8!9.13!!!!!%402102186a16883285157542636d077f!12000030794941186!sea!NO!0&curPageLogUid=AUkllBr44Ph7 I was originally planning on 2x 18650's in series at the battery power input together with a charger module, but this looks almost too good to be true.

+1 Got some old faders I'd like to breathe new life into, but all the info has vanished together with the old forums.

Guess their M44 styli are selling pretty good. https://www.hifishark.com/article/jico-remaking-shure-m44-phono-cartridge

I think you'll end up with a 5mV output. The Concordes are moving magnet cartridges, so they generate an electrical signal when the magnet attached to the end of the cantilever of the stylus moves in the gap between the coils inside the cartridge. Larger coils and larger magnet = stronger signal. So, if the coils in the "Fun Generation" carts are the same size as in the Scratch carts, the Scratch styli will give them equal loudness. BUT the differences usually lies in the coils, as the mass of a larger magnet on the cantilever would slow down it's movement (=less detail). Ortofon probably have millions of same sized magnets lying around, so why bother if it makes the cartridge sound worse? Maybe you can e-mail Ortofon and ask if the Scratch cart have larger coils than the Pro S. It is their cheapest 5mV concorde, so I'm guessing that's what they OEM.

I have a Rane 61 with a broken pan pot, causing audio dropouts. I also think some of the other pots will eventually need replacing (weak center detents, etc). For now, I'll put one of the Mic EQ pots in there, but it can't stay like that forever. I've found what seems to be suitable replacements, but just want to make sure I don't misorder. So: Are RK11K B10K potentiometers correct for this mixer? The only markings on the pots are BI P1112G, but I can't find a reference to it. I'm guessing Alpha, since the faders on the board are. *EDIT* Found the answer. RK11K B20K

Bonus: https://scotched.tumblr.com/post/943312242/how-to-install-serato-sl1-inside-your-mixer

Me and a buddy bought an XS-8 each in the big $100 sale around 2003/2004. It's not a clone, Everything inside is marked "Ecler". Ecler had discontinued the 320 and Tascam just made them continue making it for them, together with the HAK310 (XS-4). The only difference AFAIK is two foot pedal inputs and a new chassis. Anyway, rock solid mixer, and we've never had any issues. I had a Vestax PMC-07 Pro when I bought mine, sold it within a couple of weeks and never regretted it. The XS-8 was just so much better in every aspect. It should be noted that one of us have used them all that much the last 6-7 years or so, due to kids, work, etc, but they still work perfectly fine.

I'll get it on the bench within a couple of days for further inspection. The displacement of an internal optical sensor seems pretty plausible. But I found these old posts here on DV: I don't have vibration issues as far as I can tell, but I do have a 230V with S/N 16N210330... *EDIT* I get a low level creaking sound when braking the platter with a thick slipmat, so I guess I actually do have vibration issues. If this is connected to the random reversing, I just need to get the proper resistors.

If you want fancy wires, just get the Audio Technica AT6101. Can be found for $10-15. The electrical characteristics of the wires between cartridge and phono preamp can affect the frequency response (this is backed with actual science). However, wires do not need to be made by esoteric materials in moonlight by a 100 year old sensei to have those properties, and summed with the rest of the tonearm cable, these little bits hardly matter. But I use the aforementioned AT6101 on my hifi carts. Can I hear a difference between those and a $5 set of no-name leads? I don't know, but I'll spend those extra $10 on a $400 cartridge, just for the feelgood-factor. Power cables? 100% correct loading for M44-7's? Who gives a shit.

Hm. Seems like repositioning a motor sensor is the cure. I'll give it a go.

Got myself a Vestax PDX-2000 (Mk1) at a charity shop for the pricely sum of £55 today. Yay! However, I've had it sitting spinning on my coffe table for a few hours now, and a couple of times it has suddenly backspun a couple of turns at a really high speed before resuming to normal speed as if nothing happened Is there a fix for this?

This. You can get a PDX dirt cheap on Yahoo Auctions with some patience.100V only, though.Converting the voltage on a pdx turntable is easy if you have a soldering iron.... What?! They have dual windings?

After some research and considering, I'm going for the aftermarket N44Gs. Tonars N44 styli are reportedly made by Jico, are about just as nice as the OG Shures and cost £15 a pop. Way back when eBay still was fun, I bought quite a bit of new and vintage Shure carts and styli (e.g 10 NOS M44C Improved carts for $10 a piece!), so there's a plentiful supply of M44-series bodies. I miss those days. Cheap N44-7s sold in sheets of 12...

Can't you just use google translate and a proxy service like https://www.harum.io/pages/buy-from-korea# to order from within Korea?

Has anone here tried the Atrylogy/Tonar N44-7 or Tonar N44G styli? A friend of mine is opening a small bar, and would like to have a classic DJ set-up installed. Since the budget is really low, I'm going to lend him a couple of 1200's in exchange for cheap booze and help him set them up. The DJ's will mostly be his record collecting friends in their 50's, so they'll probably just cue up their records and leave it at that..But we need some decent "house cartridges". I do have a some Shure M44 and Ortofon OM carts (sans styli), and would like to make use of them, so it's either M44-7/G with aftermarket styli or OMs with Pro S styli. Opinions?

This. You can get a PDX dirt cheap on Yahoo Auctions with some patience.100V only, though.

If the suspension is good, you can have the stylus retipped.