PortableModManiac

Ha I am still clueless about the links. I just copied the link removed the / and then some work some don't!! Yeh I would avoid android and go with windows tablets which are cheaper too so you can sell the android and get a good enough windows touchscreen preferably with an SSD rather than flash type drive.

I'd almost forgotten about this type of thing and your making me feel old now. Haha. Yeah, I did the same thing. When I first learned to scratch I was so isolated that all I learned was the basic, old school stuff so when I heard about flares it was always described from the sound starting on, and then you cut it off. I had never even thought of cutting sound "out", only "on". So, I used to struggle with getting the fader to the "open" position to start the scratch so I could cut the sound "off". Ah this is the same problem I am having. I started to think I had been using the wrong hand and trying hamster etc. I am used to holding the fader tight and tapping it with a finger to open it that when I watch tutorials that say start with the fader open I just lose all control. I am thinking it might be because of having decks around as a teenager and I think they were setup for trance mixing so I presume the fader cut was huge so I was always cutting the infinite tone on the cutmaster swift battle break I had ha. Damn I didn't think I would be able to remember that enough for it to affect me attempting to learn now. Still not sure how to stop holding the fader closed and reluctantly allowing the fader open though... I am just trying anything ATM as tutorials don't seem to translate to my hands yet...

Not a Traktor user but I have been obsessed with making things run on tablets. I got a windows 8 tablet for £56 and ran VDJ MIXXX and just to record a USB card input. The best I got running was VDJ 8 with DVS etc on a cheap Acer Aspire all in one. Android is ok and can run on windows but the windows tablet is underated. The Acer Aspire was touch screen too so that the screen was able to do things that a controller would. Edit: I have a clip of the budget DVS windows tablet setup Still can't embed Instagram lol sorry

Preordered mine. I have been neglecting the Mixfader since I got the AMX. This is ideal for the live looping setup I am using. The price is decent for people who have a Mixfader already. I hope that the uses keep coming like the Mixfader kept on getting better and better with DVS etc.

Awesome thank you. I guess stuffing random things in the fader is not the best way to go :/

With the rubber still inside? Will that give it more room or revert back to the lag? I actually just got some of the proper felt spacers as I saw them for a £1 or so while ordering some stuff. I know they are not made for the AMX but I presumed that it would be better than the rubber I cut. If I take it out I will have to open it, is the idea of using spacers to help with the cut worth trying still? The AMX is fine for me but it has the biggest distance out of all the faders I've tried. It seems like a few people say they can't crab etc (not that I can yet either!) so I guess the lag is standard?

I have been reading about the cut lag in the Akai AMX Innofader and the consensus is just deal with it... I have researched the DIY mod type things that were used back in the day to get the fader cut sharper and the credit card mod stood out as a possible solution. I didn't want to open the AMX and try to tweak the calibration so I cut a piece of rubber and it rested up against the edge and reduced the cut and the rubber gave it a bounce back feel that helped me to get tighter cuts. This worked for a while... The thing kind of fell in and made the cut almost too tight that the fader needs holding to the right to stop the left sound from coming through. I am stupid I know... The thing worked better and other than the fader now being pushed back allowing the other side through it's still better than before. The problem is I don't know what will happen if I remove it or recalibrate etc. Is there any way to keep the cut and feel but make sure I am not breaking the fader (if I haven't already!). Do I need to unscrew the fader part of the AMX?

I think I have finished my setup but I only intended to start out with a few keyboards and every week something changed... I got a PT01 which then became two and then I had to re-hack the IKEA hack desk and add layers on layers to hold it all... I guess it has been a way of learning how to mod, make music and also make desks!

I watched this and maybe a second and I think the process is similar to something I am wanting to try. I think I saw the input wiring was split on the PCB with a cut. I am wanting to split it into a separate cable that goes directly to the RCA bypassing the internal preamp and then the output from the RCA is sent to the Akai AMX phono input. Kind of a Shure M44-7 upgrade that doesn't need a preamp as it's not used for portable scratching. Is it similar to the PCB cut the routing of the tonearm wiring to somewhere else with a switch that controls the use of the preamp or not? Or did I miss the point of the tutorial entirely ha?

I don't know if this helps but I recently got my iPad setup complete by using the old M-AUDIO M-Track with the powered USB adapter and the app AUM to handle the routing and recording. The manual states that it isn't iOS compatible but it is if powered. I have had it for ages and got it for cheap but it seems that it has been something that pulled it all together for me trying to make music live with Ableton Link on different devices like the MPC Fly and Serato DJ. I am a hobby musician so I am aware that I am using the worst equipment wrongly too but I share what I find so I can remember it myself!

Ha thanks I have been lurking here but not posting as I find it hard enough to follow the info I have a question about the tonearm wiring that is something I want to try but I can't explain it properly. I am thinking of doing the Bihari mod on a PT01 USB that is used for DVS with Serato. I have been able to get a vintage deck and wire the tonearm wiring to an RCA jack and the output is fine using the Akai AMX phono input. The only thing that is different is the vintage has no internal circuits I stripped it out. Would it be possible to wire up the Bihari and cartridge to the RCA directly? Or is it just the same signal if I left the stock preamp inside? Link To Clip of The RCA AMX Test I hope that link is embedded (probably isn't) but it shows the deck which I have been able to get the tonearm wiring to an RCA output and then sent to the AMX. I am trying to find a way to go directly from the Pt01 USB tonearm wiring to the PCB with the RCA output on without damaging the setup so possibly a switch that activates the built-in preamp and then turns it off for phono input to a DJ mixer. Or is leaving the stock preamp inside and using a Shure cartridge basically the same as no preamp?

I have been obsessing over the Bihari Tonearm for far too long and worked out a few things that I am glad I fixed before I damaged my timecode vinyl. The first thing is that the height is only reasonably aligned with the weight on the headshell. The only thing wrong with that was the weight was doing damage to the Serato vinyl. I was a total turntable, DJ and vinyl novice before getting a PT01. I had to learn and guess what the tutorials were talking about as I went. I hadn't aligned a cartridge before so trying to get info on how to get a good alignment with a custom tonearm and a portable turntable online was not happening. I realised that Serato DJ has a DVS calibration tool and I used that to get a reading on the Shure cartridge. I noticed the weight was carving up the grooves after using the same spot then recalibrating. I then removed the weight. The problem then was the arm angled down and skipped more. Long story short I readded the weight and made a counter weight using a pack of round coloured magnets. Same colour and different sizes so that the weight could be adjusted. This fixed the alignment and skips but I also noticed the weight of the arm is probably too much for the original thin metal base that the Bihari connects to. This also gives the false impression of balance initially as the thing is stiff and won't lean towards the heavy side. Moving this eventually loosens the hold and the metal bands. Anyway I have posted this on Instagram and will try link it here. https://instagram.com/p/BaJRD1fASXz/ Some people found the weight was doing damage and others think I am going too far for a PT01 lol.

Thank you. I'm not normally so scared to mod but I usually work with cheap hand me downs. I've been working with a charity shop record player and I have got it running on USB so I can transfer the skills to the PT01 Scratch hopefully. I am surprised that it will run DVS using a Mixfader and serato 7" so I am enjoying the possibilities it has out the box. I am loving it so far and for the price now have a DVS system that will play my crappy remixes! I have been working on mods and modding learning from failure lol. I have enough knowledge of modding to hopefully fix any mistakes but going from unbranded turntables and working out how to update them to the PT01 Scratch which is a set way is unusual for me as I either mod something or fry it trying which is more likely! Anyway I have picked up some knowledge of using the PT01 that translates to the record player I have removed from a hifi and added a USB PCB too. I have been out drinking and shouldn't be online lol so sorry if this makes no sense! Sober I'm not as clumsy lol. But I just set up a DVS Mixfader iPad Scratch with the practice yo cuts serato and I am loving it! Anyway I hope I can add some help with the modders, 3d printing or other mods to add to the awesome work so far. I am experimenting with stuff all the time and if anyone has any ideas on printed stuff I am happy to help. If you can bare with me on the stupid questions I can help with printing or other mods! Hopefully I have introduced myself and I am going to dive into modding the pt01 Scratch soon. I am just saying I'm willing and able to make printed parts and components if anyone wants to work with ideas. Right I'm off to bed before I open the PT01 Scratch drunk and get too creative! Love the work you have done through this thread and I will be annoying and questioning the same old stuff. Maybe I have knowledge of vintage record players and how to get them to be USB output and 5v to 9-12v that may be of interest. I got a vintage record player hifi unit and removed the whole thing and then converted it to USB and the tonearm is now digital. Cost £3 and is probably useless but it is Mixfader compatible and that's all I need! Right I am going to shut up and sleep. Hoping that I can exchange information I've picked up and I can ask questions with the right terminology and not be too newb! Peace guys you are awesome

Even if you are reversing the scratch switch? Oh I will no doubt void the warranty soon anyway so I may as well go for it. If the switch is removed the cable that goes into it will that stop the connection? The little jumper wire thing looks like it bridges the cable almost linking the left and right from the switch. Any ideas on where to bridge? I have loads of the wires about so think I can do my own version of the Mixfader dock just don't want to wire up the wrong parts and short it or something

Hi everyone. First post here but I have followed as much as possible. I have been modding audio and video stuff for a few years which then after getting a portable fader started on old record players modding them to run on USB power banks etc. I've finally got a PT01 Scratch which is the first thing I want to mod that's not a cheap or second hand player which has made me more cautious about tearing it apart! I know that the scratch switch is meant to be removed and swapped around for hamster etc so am I right in thinking that if I take the switch out completely and cover the hole with a 3D printed plate that the warranty is intact? I am probably dreaming and the warranty is going to be gone soon but I have seen the Mixfader dock and the thing comes with a breadboard type jumper wire. I have asked on Instagram and think I have an idea of what the wires for but I am still unsure if I can bypass the switch, remove it and then cover it without the circuit and wiring being messed up. Anyone know what the wires for exactly and if you have covered this before I'm sorry I couldn't find any info. I am more interested in just bypassing the switch not replacing it but I have a feeling it is a part of the wiring and not that easy to remove.