wax inspektor

they have to do it mono on the turnatble channel due their fader mod - they scratch off the end of the uhm... coal conductor (?) and the wiper works like a 1-pin on/off switch when going from "no-coal" to "coal" - messy description, i know... lol here is how a FRISK looks like - maybe that makes it more clear... i remember the raiden guys posting sth about shipping delays because they seem to offer custom cut in space... seems like they still scratch off the coal by hand.... that's crazy! that's what i like about the reed - it's still possible to change the cut in space at any time. (i have my magnets sitting on a double sided tape (tesa strip) underneath the slider) the frisk works like the raiden - without any resistors though - they just connect L+R on the in and out...

Would it be ok when adding a diode before summing L+R? Wouldn't this protect the channels to run into each other?

here is how the beta was built... simple as that: i don't understand why they made it all mono at the end - they could have kept the line in stereo - that's how i did it... :/ also - if you put in a 1k trimmer before each resistor there won't be any volume drops on the line in when opening the fader... (RAIDEN BETA) seen on their instagram they're using PCB's now - think they didn't change anything else though... ever wondered how heavy PT01's needle is?

^ considering the costs i think so too those are even cheaper but the rails ain't oiled when it comes out of the box - a few drops of deoxit gave em a super feel too though... http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/675452/Schiebe-Potentiometer-10-k-Mono-025-W-linear-TT-Electronics-AB-4111403545-1-St/SHOP_AREA_17440 they have the better slider also cause it's sitting on 4 points not 3 like the "ebay-fader"... think there is a dual/stereo version too - wasn't necassary for my reed-thingy though... *edit - stereo version: http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/675460/Schiebe-Potentiometer-10-k-Stereo-025-W-linear-TT-Electronics-AB-4111503545-1-St/?ref=detview1&rt=detview1&rb=1 like i mentioned before both faders are pretty stiff/hard but when taking off the wipers you'll get that mini-inno feeling; for 6-8€ only... i can blow my fader from side to the other real easily! One thing I wanted to share as well is the fact that whenever you open the raiden fader meaning the turntable channel - the line in channel will loose some volume... (~2dB) such a joke! hope you understand what i mean... so in reverse when you close the raiden fader your line in get's louder... (a homie gave me a raiden beta so i can't tell if they fixed that issue until the final version.... i doubt that though...) i had the same issue on my waxcutter too but i fixed it by putting some trim-potis before the resistors... actually don't understand why but it worked out fine...

Not sure what these reloop faders cost - i'm using those: http://m.ebay.de/itm/Stereo-Crossfader-10k-linear-/251193127540?nav=SEARCHthey're pretty awesome once the wipers and dust cover are off...

WOWZERS! Didn't have time to try out the circuit yet but will do soon hopefully... I'm def interested in a PCB but I wonder if I could realize the "reed-version" with it too...? (leave out schmitty + diff caps ?) I'll def grab a few PCBs nevertheless ... Might keep the PRO-X inside the PT01... want external boxes with reed too though - they feel so nice without wipers... For the masses I could imagine that a kit would be nice but still - not many DJ's I know could set em up on their own. I think, in case you wanna go there, you should offer different" stages" of a faderbox -PCB -KIT (PCB+COMPONENTS) -KIT+CASE (people could use their own fader) -COMPLETE BOX Lot's of synth guys keep it that way ... but tbh most people might want a complete box. I'd say focus on the case now - I always wanted sth shaped like a novation dicer but i got no time to learn a construction program and relying on other people sucked ass so far.... I looked a bit into "what-does-it-need-to-put-the-waxcutter-on-the-market-?" and it is frustrating as fuck. That shit can't be done by one man alone I felt like. I basicly stopped at the same point - had it good enough for me but making an individual enclosure and a PCB kinda stopped the whole thing. It's hard to explain why it needs another faderbox but seriously - those ALPS are pure crap. They're selling Frisk's for 95€ over here .. so depressing having something better on hands and no clue what to do with it- feelin ya... Something I'll def need in such a box is a CUE-function though... I played a little show with 2xMK2 and a PT01 running into the aux in but the lack of cueing was pretty limiting.... Pretty excited to jump back in soon ... rasteri, let me know when you're making new PCBs. Cheers!

You can replace the fader/schmitt trigger with a reed switch but not by putting it in line with the audio. You'd have the switch connected to V+ and the latches, then have a pulldown resistor in parallel with it. Check this schematic : http://i.imgur.com/24srenX.png No need to make it mono either Oh and for C8/C9 I'd use 1uF bipolar caps instead of the 4.7uF in the schematic. Make sure you note the difference between electrolytic and bipolar caps. Damn man... thanx for all the help you even made a reed version of the circuit - that's just GREAT!! will try both versions once the IC's arrived ...

Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... little dudes got more legs then I thought... It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?) sorry if this electrical nonsense

thanx mate! that guy rasteri kills it though. so glad i found this place ... i just made a list of all components - I count 16 resistors but they are labled up to No.18 - couldn't find the R12 & R16 though - just a tiny mistake I assume?! R3 is a linear 2K potentiometer - is that correct? ++++edit+++++++++++++++++ capacitors: 4x 4,7uF 1x 10uF 4x 100nF resistors: 4x 470R 1x 1K 1x 2K (lin. potentiometer) 5x 10K 3x 20K 2x 220K ICs: 1x TL074D 1x 4013D 1x 4066D (I left out the audio and power sockets.... ) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

hey there - funny someone found my old pt01 mod... that was some real primitive but effective stuff back in 2013.. i soldered a crossfader right under the volume potentiometer which was giving me a 3mm curve though... let's say it had a special feel to it.. i been through lot's of different faders and since none of them were "controlled" by a VCA they we're giving noises due dirt and stuff real quickly... the best result i had been with a pro-x-fade... it still had that curve but i never had to clean it. i even tried an innofader pro but i was getting real annoying electric click noises... now that i dig through this thread i think i might have found THE solution:) my old pt01 mod contained some more gimmicks like a 2 channel mixer with tiny 20mm faders, 2 new speakers+amp, an internal mp3-player for beats (2GB), cue function for the turntable channel, start/stop button, technics tonearm clamp and 2 remote buttons for a boss loopstation (stop+track selection) oh.... and even a cheeky needle light... now that i look into it - it is a mess lol it's been dead for some month now but i wanna update to akku and bluetooth for line in also soonish.... since most people think they can't do such mod on their own i been working on passive fader boxes for the past 3months... guess ya'll know about the frisk and the newer raiden fader... they're cool without a doubt but tbh that stuff can be done way better... my shot on a scratchbox - i call em the waxcutter - contains a real fader that runs on rails - super smooth and stable - and it cuts on a non contact / magnet base... so you can adjust the lenght of the cut in - not the curve though that's a super sharp cut (on/off switch) which is giving some click noises though - sometimes more sometimes less... that's still a bugger to me but it's the same on the raiden and frisk - it's because of the passive circuitry... + funny feature is the bluetooth line in / you can use it with a cable also though - it runs on 2x AAA's at the moment but akku (charging via usb) is set up already.. haven't found the right case yet... i'm super happy to see that there is an active solution - can't wait to try that out - real curious how much space it takes... giving such a box a batterie brings up so many cool opportunities - the real lag still is the turntable though... a better needle is a must - i didn't succeed in putting a m44/7 to it - it's just like rasteri described.... oh and for the pitch mod - there is a neat trick right in the box.... just put the pitch switch BETWEEN 33 and 45 and you'll get a pitch of sth around 20 rpm... works on the handytrax and the pt01. i wonder why not hanging a potentiometer right onto the motor and give it a huge pitch wheel u could control with your thumb? sorry for the mega post and the language also... i'm no native english speaker... super happy i found this spot - super inspirational... totally dig the idea of teaching each other... maaaad props to rasteri for that circuitry and PCB design - other's would be sitting on this like the last bit of pot in town.

true - checked the instructions in the mail again - i screwed it... thanx for the manual ad though