Kian

I was hoping for a punch line.

Don't even bother doing them over 135 bpm. Your wrists will fall off before you even get pass electro beats.

Agreed, I know guys who can do all the advance skratches (prisms, clover tears, all the new shit in Qbert DIY DVDs) and years later they still can't put it all down in one pattern or 8 bars, and it doesn't even look like they are progressing foward with the idea's of skratching. They had the nerve to talk shit about me and not being able to do them skratches so I told to later on do them skratches for me and walk the walk. We had a electro skratch session and MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. End of story.

You guys have to remember that if you use a OM cartridge from a 1200 to a pdx, you would have to realign the cartridge depending on the position it was.

Not true, very fast cut in time can work against you. I can do alps with 4-5 mm cut in time and it will sound like a 2mm Rane 56, except crabs. Just be quick and you'll barely notice the difference/important of cut in time. Its important to be an all around fader person so you can skratch with all kinds of mixers, even stock PCVs muahah.

Actually I should have mentioned that I do mine not snapping, just the wrist.

I talked with DJ Quest last month about his crossfader curve setting, he likes to turn it a little to the left to decrease the slope cut in time. I got to use his Rane and his settings didn't disturb me. Try doing that if its too fast, turn it a little counterclockwise to the left; just imagine all the guys who talks about 1 millimeter cut in distant would say about this.

Well transforms are best done gripping the fader because the technique is to grab parts of the sound from the record and doing that over and over.

it takes alot of practice to get used to another fader. i couldnt do more than 1 click flare the first 2 minutes of my new rane 56. took 2 weeks to get all of my skratch back and a month to get used to it. after skratching on unmodified vestax PCVs stock again, i said oh shit and put the springs back to restore the harsh tention because i couldn't cut anymore on slow ass PCVs. but it would be great to learn / master all fader - ALPs to Focus fader to Rane 56s.

Not to discourage you but the delayed 2 click flare does not sound anything like your 3 delayed clicks. I've been trying to do the delayed 2 click flares for over 3 years and still have not got it down. Yes, it is that difficult to figure it out. I've red many techniques and heard just about every damned file out there avaible, i'm not sure if you have it down correctly or i just need to be schooled by some of you guys. How about posting a delayed 2 click flares? Thanks.

THATS RIGHT! The upfaders on my 07 does not cut the sound at 8, it fades normally. The original ALPs that came with it cuts out at 8 before I replaced them with PCVs, which it only cuts below 1. Thought you wanted the normal upfader fade and not the ALPs curves.

Just focusing on sound quality-wise, here are some brief comparisions of S/Ns. (signal to noise ratio). I have Rane's spec of the 56's master output signal to noise ratio (from the manual) at 101db with unity gain/94db with 12db gain. On http://www.ureidj.com/product_1601S.aspx, they don't specify theirs on master output. Majority of mixers i've seen/heard: Stanton - over 75db Vestax - 75db VESTAX 07 ISP - 65db (muahahahahah) It says on their official website. Typical cassette player's s/n are usually around 70dbs, the vestax 07 ISP falls below cassette players quality? I know it ain't all about numbered/printed specs but rane 56 is still the best sounding mixer from all of the listed above. I still need to find Rodecs and others. Do you guys know any others from memory?

Actually it perfectly upfades like an 07 if you set the contour sliders exactly in the middle. But it depends on which generation of upfaders you have on your 07, different generations of vestax upfaders for 07 are known to have different slopes.

No, I'm new on the message board here because I got sick of the asisphonics board fucking up, I miss skratchcon the most. Electronic wiring is a specialty that everyone needs to learn.

That would be perfect, to wire 2 - 8 ohm speakers together. Ohm's law allows you to connect those speakers in parallel to get 4 ohm total, or wire them in series for a total of 16 ohms. I recommend the 4 ohm configuration.

That will work but it can induce alot of electrical interference/noise depending on what you have running. The impedance of the signal will divide and the signal quality will suffice, you won't be able to turn up the signal without clipping. It would totally suck if you can't turn the signal past -3db on your mixers' LED levels. Then if you run the cable more than 10ft, you can hear the difference if you were to compare especially during recordings. But some people are known to get away with that method, give it a try.

HAHA!... Just keep practicing and do it over and over with slow beats first. If you jump into beats faster than 80 bpm then you don't really know if your on beat and have no idea(s) what you are really doing. Twiddle method is great if you haven't got the wrist method down but the two sounds very different and the wrist method sounds doper. By the way, I can double time 2 click flares and orbits at 110 bpm.

Chemically speaking, WD40 will eat up the plastic portion of your fader(s). WD40 are not recommended for plastic applications and will generally eat up any plastic material. Caig lube droplets were designed for plastic-on-metal contact. Some have never encountered WD40 eating the plastic part of their faders. I lubed my vestax 07 upfaders with wd40 because it's metal-to-metal contact on the rails but never my rane 56.

Thats why you never buy speakers that handles too much watts, hehe. You need to find the specs to your speaker because it may run well with 500 wrms (root means sqaure) in other words, it can performs normally at that given power. It's likely for all speakers to max out twice as their rated wrms power but not all speakers. If your speaker maxes out at 1,000 watts and you buy an amp that pushes out 1,000 wrms, the speaker will blow fairly easy because the amp will eventually push more than 1,000 watts due to wrms and musical peaks. Thus your speaker will blow after a short time period if fed more than 1,000 watts. If you get an amp the maxes out 1,000 watts, and your speaker maxes out at 1,000 watts, that should be fine. But be careful and observe for any distortion.

It depends on how loose your talking about. Mine are loose but its barely enough to feel it with no distraction with skratching or juggling. I can definately feel it on juggles though. Its just the space thats between the fader and the rail that it glides on. If they tighten up that space, there would be too much friction. That small circumference thats there causes the slight wobble/loose feel and the lube chemicals would rub/run off. Takes time to get used to it, just like me adjusting to asian women, being an asian myself, mauhaha.

Muahaha, just look at the upfaders. They're not aligned straight.

Looks like one tone arm is for playback and the other for recording directly to a blank record.

Mike, I had the same problem moving from the PCV-05 crossfader to the Rane 56. Before the 56, I owned an Vestax 05 pro II, 05 Pro D and still using an 07 pro. I worked my way up from Alps to PCVs, Focus and etc. The fader caps on the 56 are different in height verses other mixers, so like a few of you, I missed a few clicks. It took just two weeks to get used to it but its worth keeping the 56. I was skratching with DJ Disk at a show weeks ago, it was open deck and we had newbies with unmodded 06s and 07s. I got on them faders and it wasn't cool, hehe. I don't miss those faders at all but crabbing and orbiting on those fader can kill your fingers/wrist. Takes me back to 2000, first generation of PCV faders. I think it's important to learn stock faders or be used to them at all times because at battles they might just place a stock mixer on stage and there would not be any excuse if your skratching was not cool. Hehe, there is no excuses when it comes to turntablism. I would remove the springs because at times the springs will pull back from the fader stem and physically skratch the top part of the face plate and make screetchy noises. The springs were on the fader but I uplifted them so it wouldn't slow the fader down, but not physically removed in case people wanted more friction. My face plate has skratches under it now, that is why I removed it.