SouperRad

Does anyone know offhand the RPM of the motor in the PT01? I'm trying to make my own turntable from a Solid Cutz platter, seeing as that platter is a direct match and comes with a pulley already I figured matching the RPM of the PT01 motor exactly would give me the same range of platter RPMs.

Just got done with my DVS mod. I've seen a couple versions of this mod but only one had documentation and it involved drilling and soldering directly onto the soundboard off the needle, so I came up with my own approach. I removed the relevant L/R audio pins from the 6-pin female JST plug and inserted them into their own 2-pin plug which I connected to the center posts on a DPDT switch. The two poles being a 3.5mm stereo jack and the needle audio (which I got by inserting two pinned wires back into the 6-pin female plug). I also kept both the switch and the audio plug on the top face of the PT01 - this way I don't have any extra wires crossing over from the top half to the bottom half. So now I can route a DVS signal from the USB card to my iphone and still use the JDD fader in the PT01 by routing the sound back in through the headphone out. Earlier in the week I installed the JDD digital start/stop switch, and a chinese mp3/bluetooth board exactly like the models used by ScratchToys. That install was a lot of fun - ~20 minutes of cutting into one of the steel plates with a dremel XD. The board fit so perfectly I couldn't believe it. The endgoal now is to set up a Windows tablet that has enough juice to run VDJ8 with latency as low as possible (able to get a little over 1ms on my desktop). Then I could have deck A output to the stereo jack while deck B outputs to the bluetooth board - so I can have both pre and post fader channels from the same external device! Next mod I'm pondering is a way to mount some of those bluetooth dicers and get the usb power from the Pt01. I also breadboarded my idea for a multi-button 'fader' and the results are promising, but I'm going to hold off on that one until I'm done with everything else. Between work and everything else just getting these 4 mods in was exhausting, and I still have a plastic platter stabilizer to attach too XD

Wow that was incredibly helpful - and much simpler to integrate into a PT01 than I had imagined. One last question - am I correct in assuming that low-voltage to the VCA keeps the audio open and high voltage to the VCA cuts the audio? I would assume that the VCA from Innofader goes to low when it is in a 'cut' position, but that would just be assuming on my part. Thanks again for responding - in addition to what I needed to order to perform the other mods, I went ahead and ordered a couple ICs to wire this up as well - just a dollar or so in parts, save for the buttons. E: I answered my own question by unplugging the JDD fader and turning on the PT01 - plays just fine with the fader unplugged so I must have assumed correctly! Can't believe it took me this long to realize that I could figure it out myself!

That's the exact setup I was envisioning - just with an extra switch to flip the functionality of the button (though what you described would be the default mode), and some extra buttons wired to allow for fancier 'moves.' And yes I 100% agree that a transform button should never replace a fader so as to not mess with one's ability to play on other setups - I was merely doing a thought experiment as to whether or not there was a solution that was cheaper/as cheap as the scratch switch while providing cleaner, more reliable cuts. My post was supposed to be more of 'is this feasible' than 'lets toss our nice faders in favor of arcade buttons' Anyways, I've been doing more research on fader circuitry - am I correct in thinking that I could implement what I'm thinking of by simply running the inverted button input through a nanofader where the linear pot would be hooked up? When the button is open the inverted input would be high, keeping the fader open, then when the button is pressed the inverted voltage would drop to gnd causing the nanofader to close.

I just got my PT01-S this week and have started to mod it (added the JDD2X2RS to it yesterday, have an mp3 decoder on the way and plan to have a 'DVS switch' to kill needle input to fader and replace with input from external source so the internal fader can be used on DVS output). The new fader was a huge improvement, even if the scratch switch was a clever launching point to keep the unit price low - but it got me wondering if there's a 'cheap' way to get clean cuts even if it means a greater departure from the traditions of a fader than the switch was. So my question to you is - is a 'scratch button' feasible? Like a plain Sanwa momentary button, functioning in the same way as the scratch switch? In a single-button setup, for example, flare click could be moving the platter while tapping the button - and transform scratches could be holding the button down and letting go briefly (or vice versa). Then a more functional setup might be 2 (or more) buttons in an XOR - thus following the above example flare clicks would be tapping any one button and transforms would be tapping any one button WHILE holding down one other button. You could even run the buttons into a final XOR with a latching button/switch to 'hamster' style it and reverse what holding/releasing buttons does. If the concept of replacing the PT01-S scratch switch with 1 or more buttons even makes sense - what would the wiring look like? E: After getting more creative with my googling I found that such buttons were often used before sharp-cutting crossfaders were introduced, they were even called 'transform' buttons since mashing them would produce transformer-like scratches like I thought. Seems to be rather common knowledge in fact so apologies for being such a dunce. I'm still curious how they could be wired into a PT01-S - especially since I still haven't read anywhere of hooking up two such buttons through an XOR gate to allow 'flipping' between opening/closing the audio with button presses.