scottie(the)goonie

That's my tutorial. I'm flattered (chuffed?) that it is still relevant. If you can get an XS-8 under $100 and drop in at least one Innofader, it will decimate all. I still cut on this 10 years later. Full EQ cuts is awesome. SSL is just the icing on the cake. I worked with Elliot from Innovate to get the final product made. It's a 10 inch hidden gem if you get it working brother!

If you're using 1200's you need 4.0g of weight. You really have to break them in. Let them sit on a groove for a couple of nights. You will SEE more movement on the cartridge when u baby, but you have to remember that these are both lighter and longer than SHURE. The weight is spread out compared to traditional carts. I'll be honest with you, M447's are still the best for scratching - but they hide your heavy-handed flaws. If you try to cut on a cheat belt-driven turntable you will understand what I mean. It just takes more finesse. The Ortofons do not reward aggressive movement, they reward a light touch. Don't let the extra weight fool you. How long have you had these for? They take a long time to break in IMO.

I'm in a similar situation so maybe I can offer since insight. I currently have a very nice gaming monitor (ASUS PG348Q). It has everything you want for gaming (34", 100hz refresh, G-SYNC, 3440x1440 [21:9] for gaming and video. The problem is that it lacks the bit depth and contrast ratio that TV's have. My blacks are never fully black (the absence of light). My ex girl had a nice Samsung OLED that cost around $2500. I've watched Blue Planet 2 on both my PC, and her TV (streamed through Amazon). There is no doubt about which one looks better (hers). As Diggla mentioned, good color reproduction doesn't require tons of light. In fact, too much light tends to "color band" on PC monitors in a digital way. I'm at the point where I want a dedicated second monitor for color grading in video production. The cost for 10-bit video with true color? $2500+ for a Flanders Scientific monitor. The next best option is BENQ, at around $1200 for a screen that does no higher than 60fps. I'm even considering buying a medium sized OLED TV instead of a color grading monitor for this reason. PC monitors simply cannot have it all yet. Between: accurate color, size, and refresh rate - choose any two.

Even though you don't intend to game, "gaming laptops" are usually built with performance in mind. Heat is the TRUE bottleneck of ALL laptops these days. 8th gen i7 processors are fast, SSD's are fast, memory is gracious. None of that matters once your PC throttles you at 80C. I edit video and game on a beast of PC. The one thing that will never get better is how windows handles audio latency. It's a consequence of different hardware and drivers interacting. If audio is your primary concern, I would go Macbook Pro.

I do it the simplest way possible. Basically, watch a replay of a previous game (PUBG replay mode) - then use screen capture software (OBS) to record what the screen sees. The rest is planning and editing. 1. Join a game (solo or 1-man squad). Ignore the objective. Get to the location you want, act out the scene. 2. Watch the replay of THAT game. Use the free-look camera to compose your shots. Use OBS (mapped to a button) to start/stop screen recordings. 3. Edit footage in a NLE (Adobe Premiere, Final Cut, Avid, etc) PUBG doesn't offer in-house animation/cinema editing tools to the degree of GTA or TF2. There is no extra animation or level/object design here. I'm using what's already in the game. If I want to re-shoot a scene, it may take multiple tries before I drop into a map at the same location, with the same weather etc. I'm frequently killed in-game while shooting video.

Finally got around to completing a new cinematic. It's short, it took me forever, and I struggled to give it a good story.

Samsung T5. I have the 500GB, but the 1TB has come down in price since a year ago. I can't speak for TRAKOR, but the drive gets a lot of use for video editing purposes (more than it ever would in DJing). I currently use it to store 1000's of foley and soundFX files. I do more READING to it than writing and it's the best.

Another member of this forum (Dopez) had referenced some knock-off N447 needles for your M447 carts (assuming you already have headshells/carts). They are less than 1/10 the price of the Shures at this point. I might even buy them just to see. If 1 out of 10 is good, it's still a deal. I think heavy-handedness and finesse are more exposed when your needle is not up to par.

UPDATE: I've had the Ortofon Concorde Scratch MK2's for over a month. This is my 30 Day review. Initial Conditions: One needle is used at home, one needle is used at work.Each setup is scratch only (1 turntable, 1 mixer)Technics 1200mk2Height = 1, Anti-Skate= 0, Weight = 4gramsThings I like: The headshell handle is obtrusive because it is longer, but it allows you a bit of purchase to find tracks that are towards the extremes, quicker.You can use 1 or 2 fingers to lift the cart by the handle. I used 2 fingers on all Technics and Numark shells and it was harder to reach some tracks because I don't have the longest fingers.It is easier to see the track you are on.They are lightweight and there is less effort to move them around.Things I don't like: So far, they still skip worse than my old M44-7's. Scribble and Hydroplane techniques require a more careful hand.There is a certain hollowness to the sound, I hear it on my Yamaha HS-8's at home - but not my cheap earbuds at work. They are lightweight and there is less effort to move them around.The plastic headshell handle is flexible and cheap. There is still rotational "play" even when they are mounted tightly. It makes it feel cheap.The included carrying case (if you buy the pair together) is probably worth about $10 max. 4g of weight gives you no extra room on 1200 Mk2's. The backwards counterweight trick causes the needle to skip.Finally, the ridiculous cost.Observations: I used these for scratch purposes only. The needles themselves have not been subjected to long periods of tracking time, as it would be if I were only listening or mixing. I'm not sure how this affects the break in period.I generally don't notice the needles when scratching. I DO notice them when I'm heavy handed.I wish the carts were a little heavier so I could back off weight. I will update this in another few months.

I appreciate all the honest answers here. I purchased the pair (Concord Mk2 Scratch) last night (A-Skate, good observation about the free case now that my Shure case won't work anymore). After tax these were $290....

Thanks Dig ... so the turntablists are getting the raw deal here. I suppose the Concord Mk II scratch would be the ticket, but man, the full pair are $264 on Amazon! How do you like the Concord shape vs the standard Technics headshell?

My needle(s) gave up on me after 10 years. I just read through the 6 page thread on Shure... depressing stuff. My question is: Which Ortofon setup is going to be the closest m44-7 replacement? I'd rather just get into a new setup now instead of hunting down needles. Thanks all.

Thanks for the comments Doob 1. I use an Xbox One control programmed through Steam's BIG picture, for control over long "look" movements. I can control analog sensitivity/speed with a joystick. 2. My up/down movements (Z-axis) are limited to 2 speeds, but without the analog control (on or off only). The same limitations apply to PAN and DOLLY. 3. The most recently implemented "smooth camera" which basically allows me to use a mouse/keyboard/scrollzoom to create "shaky cam" movements, which I've become pretty fond of in close up action scenes (like Saving Private Ryan). There are also a lot of moments that are difficult to create like rotation (dutch angle) or a moving bird's eye view. As for all the limitations, PUBG has given us a decent amount of camera tools to work with.

I've been learning a lot about each little element that goes into making a video clip feel "cinematic". The camera work, coloring, and sound are the obvious features - but the most difficult part is creating narrative that is identifiable. This is the result of a few months of work. The actual gameplay it was based on was probably 30 seconds long. I appreciate any sort of criticism.

I started taking pre-game footage with ALL TALK on. I guess I'm being a troll but most people play along and it's fun. To be honest I enjoy the little moments of banter between all the action. https://youtu.be/OsNe24lqS1w

It's just strange how republicans pick their battles. Their stance is all about civil liberties and freedoms. The right to do whatever, whenever, wherever. Except when it interferes with freedom of monopoly, then it is okay to regulate. I'm definitely a moderate person and I understand the game. I just which the rhetoric matched the behavior instead of the straw-manning.

I'm new to semi-serious video editing and I'm pretty happy with Resolve. Resolve is just a NLE video editor (like avid, adobe premiere, final cut). I chose to use Davinici Resolve 14 because the only real alternative is Adobe CC, which requires a monthly subscription... Resolve is free and the workflow is simpler. With Adobe, you would have to import/export files through Premiere, After Effects, and Audition. Resolve does everything in one program I recently rebuilt my PC (i7-8700k, 1080 Ti, PCIe M.2 SSD's, Ultrawide 3440x1440 PG348Q) and I promised myself I would spend as much time producing things as I do consuming things, so here I am. - And yes, the footage is a "what you see is what you get" recording from the camera's POV. OBS Studio captures what I see on the screen, and I use hotkeys to turn record on/off. Now, in the actual replay mode of PUBG I use a xbox one controller to give me smooth camera motion using analog sticks. I can't do that with a mouse. I have play/pause replay bound to the controller, as well as zoom and playback speed. I also record things at 1/4 speed with the highest quality graphics, instead of slowing down playback speed in Resolve for slow motion.

Yes. I use OBS to screen capture the replays, then I use Davinci Resolve 14 to edit/color. The replay system doesn't really encourage cinema making (compared to games like TF2), so you have to find ways to get certain shots. The fun thing about replay is that it is NOT a recording. It remembers the position/ movement/ action of things - but items in free fall (ie. projectiles, dead bodies) follow chaos theory + physics. Those shotgun shells will fall and hit the ground in a different way, every time. I think that shot took 5 different takes before I was happy with it. Same goes for girl who get's shot and rag-dolls to the ground.

Here's my second PUBG Short "Snack". (Full Video 4k + Sound) (Gfycat Quick Preview) The actual gameplay in this video was about 20 seconds long for me. The video is under 2 minutes. Took me maybe 20 days to make sense of all the footage an put it together (sound, color, transitions etc) as I'm still learning the software and cinema in general. Hope you guys like it.

Thanks guys. Sym has it right. There is a lot of beauty in this game that goes unexplored because of competitiveness. Also, I can't (yet) take any of these type of shots in real life, so this is my way of learning how to shoot.

Hey guys, so this is my new hobby. I take fun game play moments and re-shoot them in replay mode. I'm pretty new to video editing and shooting scenes - I have a lot more respect now for people who make it look easy. (4k/60fps + Audio) https://youtu.be/lwN0bYE9oGQ

PUBG is my jam. It got me into making videos and caring about my PC again. The game mechanics are intentionally hard and I love playing FPP with randoms.

I was using the original (larger) Lacie Rugged back in 2008 and it was fine. I recommended the rugged to one of my younger DJ friends and her drive (newer one) failed in a matter of days. This was the impetus behind my post here; looking at the newer SSD options. I'm somewhat jaded from having a drive fail on me the DAY OF a gig.

Thanks guys. Doob is yours a SSD or the a regular hard drive? Samsung SSDs are stupid expensive, but I'm willing to pay it if it is worth it. The other option would be to buy multiples of cheaper externals, but something tells me they are too cheap to be good.

Hey DV, I've finally gotten most of my gear where it needs to be, and it wasn't without the help and advice from this board. I'm using the DJM-S9 with SDJ, and it actually runs halfway decent on my Lenovo Yoga 2 Pro. I recently swapped out my laptop's internal SSD for something newer/bigger, but I'd also like to invest in some external storage that I can move around. Q: What externals have you guys been using? I've had bad experiences/failures in the past with the cheaper 2.5" HDDs. I'm wondering if those the newer, expensive SSD externals are actually worth the price.