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johnny 1 move

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Posts posted by johnny 1 move

  1. This site is quite useful:

     

    http://www.domesticsoundproofing.co.uk/soundproof_wall_help.htm

     

    It's got some nice animations to give you some idea of what's involved:

     

    Click here to see below as an animated movie:-

     

    The rock wool site has some good info too:

     

    http://guide.rockwool.co.uk/media/85832/soundpro%20book%20low%20res%20from%20capell-sec.pdf

     

     

    I'd recommend rock wool RW3 slabs (denser than the normal stuff but not so heavy it's difficult to manage) and gyproc soundbloc plaster board (again heavier than standard but not so much you need to worry about supporting the weight).

     

    I lined my studio room (in a brick walled, board roofed double garage) using 90mm studs screwed to the walls through 5mm neoprene, the screwed the plaster board to the studs through more neoprene, with 75mm rw3 slabs filling the gap (with 15 mm of air which is helps too).

     

    I didn't bother with resilient bars as it's not a vocal booth and it's not connected on any side so I didn't see the point, it was as much about warmth as sound proofing but I got excellent results on both counts :-)

     

    If you want any advice just give me a shout. The people at domestic soundproofing were really helpful even though I didn't buy anything from them in the end.

     

    Get your rockwool, plasterboard and neoprene from ebay, there are a few shops that basically let you use trade only suppliers without having a trade accounts. I used buildershopuk:

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROCKWOOL-RW3-75MM-ACOUSTIC-SOUND-INSULATION-5-PACKS-/390231707237?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5adb9f4e65#ht_3611wt_984

     

    All the stuff actually came from the local travis perkins, compared to somewhere like studiospares the prices are a steal and it the same stuff

  2.  

    My point is this: the integration is pointless because you have to recreate it all manually. You may as well not bother doing it if you have to import all the stuff manually. COME ON NI!!!

     

    It just works on my laptop.

     

    I do all my organising in iTunes so I only have to do it once for iTunes, tractor, serato, my work phone, my shuffle

     

    Cue Steve giving me shit for being Steve Jobs' bitch

  3. There's no magnet on the circuit board, it's electromagnetic coils:

     

    The ECLER ETERNAL crossfader is an inductive fade technology based on a magnetic control. An extremely light aluminium screen (0,5 gr.) cuts the flux lines of a magnetic field created between two sets of coils. Field technology tested over 20.000.000 Operations and 5-year warranty.

     

    Out of interest can you take a picture of what fell off?

     

    I've got a knackered eternal (bent the rails) and I studied electronics years ago so I might be able to help. Probably not but maybe..

  4. also i use ortofon scratch needles/carts. i notice a lot of shure users have their weight set pretty light - if you use shures do you find the records wear out quickly or does it take a long time?

     

    Without going into a physics lecture IMO Shure's are louder and skinless mainly because the the "spring" is softer so they move more within the magnetic field but that movement isn't enough to pull the tonearm side to side enough to make it skip i.e. the needle moves more and the tonearm less.

     

    Don't use concords with a s shaped tonearm and angle the needle outwards to fake a straight arm. If you want to see the effect angling has on skipping, put your needle cover on, but the covered needle on the record and start scratching. With the needle at the "proper" angle then you'll see it swing in and out as you move the record, the more you angle it out the less it will swing.

     

    Now, if you put more weight on the swaying gets worse, which tells you you need a softer needle that you can put less weight on and you should angle it outwards.

     

    Give it a go and it should make sense

  5. Sounds like you got thrown off by one little thing which ended up having more of an impact than it should have.

     

    I used to practice on the shabbiest decks I could find to get used to recovering when things go wrong.

     

    I think the trick is to stay focussed on what's next and not what just happened.

     

    And remember... Not matter how bad the fuck up its not like you're going to lose a bollock ;-)

  6.  

    That Tandy badboy even had split cue which was a godsend for not pissing the olds off :-)

     

    I had one of those and 2 beltdrive citronic decks with bits of wood wedged under the top plates to stop them being too springy and some parcel shelf speakers and an amp from the 60s

  7. Does anybody every try to scratch ambidextrously? Do you have any tips to make it easier (other than hard practice)?

     

    You need both hands to cut and one of them's shit.

     

    Every scratch is ambidextrous isn't it? Unless you're that japanese fella that used his knob on the fader in the DMCs once

  8. Too drunk to type the other night so I'll try again!

     

    In one of Yoshi's videos he was wondering what I meant by "walking" a scratch... basically it just means doing the same combo repeatedly but changing position. It can change the pitch of part of the combo, but only part as the rest of the combo is normal pace.

     

    It works with any technique, you just need to take one or some of the individual sounds and either change the length, or change the speed so you don't return back to the start position.

     

    In what I called walking tazers, the first back stroke of the first tazer moves a lot further back that the other one, the forwards parts of both tazers is the same, like this:

     

  9. I call it an open 3 click swing cos it's a 3 click swing starting open fader

     

    I do them in combos with 3 click flares

     

    3 click boomaflangs:

     

     

    which is a 3 click variation of boomaflangs which I posted on skratchworx a couple of years ago but people started calling boomflares.

     

    Quite easy to learn if you just do 3 click flares then start throwing in babies at each end

  10. DV repping h0ard! HAs Dr. Weevil been posting on here?

     

    Who's special guest or is that the name of an actual DJ?

     

    That's his dj name

     

     

    are you entering this year johnny?

     

    Unfortunately not... I'm rendonculously busy at work and me and my girlfriend are expecting our first baby in a few months so I'm on permanent diy duty at the weekends.

     

    I started getting something together but I didn't want to do it half arsed

  11. The term "boomflare" seems to have cropped up quite a bit on youtube ever since I posted the ttm for them on that ridiculously long skratchlopedia thread on skratchlounge.

     

    I'm not claiming credit for the combo in any way but some guy posted a video of the combo calling them boomflares and the term seems to have caught on.

     

    I call them boomaflangs and start them a a different point which might be easier to learn for some people.

     

    Basically its a two click orbit then a boomerang (but starting open)

     

    the open boomerang is the same as a two click orbit but you change record direction each time you click:

     

    http://www.johnny1move.co.uk/scratch/?scratch=13

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