Jump to content


Photo

Anybody (Rasteri) Know about Rane Transform Switches?


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 Jam Burglar

Jam Burglar
  • Elite Member
  • 721 posts

Posted 26 July 2017 - 03:31 PM

Anybody know if the TTM-56 uses the same switches as the TTM-54(i)?  The switches on my 56 are starting to get kind of flakey and I can't find anywhere that has the "ST-2" switches specifically listed.  I found a supplier that's telling me these http://www.instrumen....com/10886.html are the part but they're labeled "2P2T" for the Rane TTM-54(i).

 

I pulled up some photos of the 54(i) and they sure look the same.  I own the original 54 and it has those metal switches but when the 54(i) came out I know they upgraged to a different switch.  I just don't know if they upgraded again with the 56.  Just to be clear, I'm talking about the original TTM-56, not the TTM-56(s)



#2 rasteri

rasteri
  • Elite Member
  • 1,979 posts

Posted 26 July 2017 - 04:00 PM

I've never been inside a 54i but that link you sent certainly looks like it's the same as the switch in the 56.

It won't come attached to a circuit board, though. You'll have to do some soldering.

#3 Jam Burglar

Jam Burglar
  • Elite Member
  • 721 posts

Posted 26 July 2017 - 04:09 PM

Sweet!  Thanks a ton man.  Thanks for the heads up on the soldering too, I have that covered  :)  :)  :)

 

FX888D-23BY-HAK-2.jpg?1500545692

 

61TfPGq6DHL._AC_UL320_SR310,320_.jpg


  • danswift likes this

#4 Wax On

Wax On
  • Elite Member
  • 7,043 posts

Posted 28 July 2017 - 09:37 AM

sidebar - loved the 54i.



#5 Jam Burglar

Jam Burglar
  • Elite Member
  • 721 posts

Posted 28 July 2017 - 11:20 AM

I really liked/like my 54.  It had a unique EQ designed to cut bass and treble for "acapellas" and you could also boost the bass with it.  The crossfader curve on it was a little different too so I could set the curve kind of soft and do these crazy sounding transforms.  I did end up innofading mine a few years back and got some extra life out of it.  It was the faders going bad that were the real drawback.  I used it for 3 years as my main mixer.  By comparison I've used the 56 for over 13 years now.

 

Everyone dissed the shit out of that mixer (the 54) when it came out.  Said it was "ugly".  I always thought that was kind of stupid criticism about utilitarian gear.  Fashion show DJs, pssssh.

 

I'll let you all know how the switch replacement goes.  I'm pretty sure my headphone jack needs work too.  I'm going to reflow it and check to see if I can adjust the clamping springs when I do the switches.  Otherwise I might be replacing that too.



#6 arkei

arkei

    CORNHOLIO

  • Elite Member
  • 1,522 posts

Posted 28 July 2017 - 02:18 PM

It had a unique EQ designed to cut bass and treble for "acapellas" and you could also boost the bass with it.


You spin Bro?

#7 Jam Burglar

Jam Burglar
  • Elite Member
  • 721 posts

Posted 28 July 2017 - 04:24 PM

 

It had a unique EQ designed to cut bass and treble for "acapellas" and you could also boost the bass with it.


You spin Bro?

 

 

Hell knaw.  The future of DJing is an app on your phone, just ask everyone at Skratchlounge 8 years ago.  There was even a guy that hella shook up the DMC with it.  He's now more famous than the Ruck.



#8 Jam Burglar

Jam Burglar
  • Elite Member
  • 721 posts

Posted 07 August 2017 - 01:34 PM

Just an FYI, I got this installed this morning and it's working like a champ.  What happened with mine was that I was loosing the right stereo channel from my left turntable/cd input.  I would toggle that switch and the right channel would periodically cut out.  Basically just super-flaky.

 

 

All in all this was probably and intermediate level repair.  It was way more of a pain than I thought, mainly because, as Rasteri pointed out, the new switch didn't come with the PCB.  Removing the part is real simple but desoldering the old switch from the mini switch-PCB was a headache, even with a vacuum desoldering gun.  I was eventually able to remove the switch without cutting the old switch's through-hole pins and mounting posts BUT it took a long time and a lot of patience. After multiple reworks I was able to get the part off and luckily Rane makes some durable PCBs and I didn't pull any pads or damage any traces.  I think the better option would have been to cut the switch off the PCB and then take the pins and posts out separately but I wanted to see if the part is salvageable.  If you can get the PCB and the switch together it would be a much easier job with just a little soldering.

 

If I get a chance I'll disassemble my old switch and see if its something that can be repaired.



#9 rasteri

rasteri
  • Elite Member
  • 1,979 posts

Posted 11 August 2017 - 06:09 PM

All in all this was probably and intermediate level repair.  It was way more of a pain than I thought, mainly because, as Rasteri pointed out, the new switch didn't come with the PCB.  Removing the part is real simple but desoldering the old switch from the mini switch-PCB was a headache, even with a vacuum desoldering gun.


Yeah double-sided plated through holes can be a pain to de-solder, one trick that's always worked for me though is melt the solder then tap the entire PCB against a solid surface - the solder should fly right out. Also solder wick and flux are your friends, and often adding more solder first works (since they generally use lead-free shite in the factory).
 

If I get a chance I'll disassemble my old switch and see if its something that can be repaired.


Oftentimes switches just need cleaning and re-lubricating TBH. Servisol super 10 is your friend.

#10 Jam Burglar

Jam Burglar
  • Elite Member
  • 721 posts

Posted 11 August 2017 - 06:37 PM

 

All in all this was probably and intermediate level repair.  It was way more of a pain than I thought, mainly because, as Rasteri pointed out, the new switch didn't come with the PCB.  Removing the part is real simple but desoldering the old switch from the mini switch-PCB was a headache, even with a vacuum desoldering gun.


Yeah double-sided plated through holes can be a pain to de-solder, one trick that's always worked for me though is melt the solder then tap the entire PCB against a solid surface - the solder should fly right out. Also solder wick and flux are your friends, and often adding more solder first works (since they generally use lead-free shite in the factory).
 

If I get a chance I'll disassemble my old switch and see if its something that can be repaired.


Oftentimes switches just need cleaning and re-lubricating TBH. Servisol super 10 is your friend.

 

 

I added new solder, fluxed and then desoldered using the FR-300 and I was able to free up all the contact pins but those big ole corner posts didn't want to budge no matter how many times I reflowed.  I ended up doing a little heat, nudge, heat nudge action and eventually got them free.  I always get nervous doing that sort of thing because I'm afraid I'll lift a pad but everything ended up fine in the end.  I always hear stories of chips just falling out when desoldered correctly but I've not had that happen except with caps.  I do tend to try to wiggle the tip of the desoldering gun as I finish the vacuuming to prevent the pin from sticking back to the pad.  I may just need practice.

 

Thanks for all your help Rasteri!  I bet some detox it in that switch will clean it right up.  The foam "washers" surrounding the switches have started to break down and I wonder if that's gumming up the switch.  I'm getting new foam too.  




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users