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Numark PT-01 modding thread


Guest rasteri

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Guest rasteri

Is the speed selector just a switch that switches between different value Resistors and the VR1 does the additional speed adjustment?

The motor speed control circuit is a mess of incomprehensible resistor networks, but it all boils down to the diagram on page 4 of this datasheet - http://www.rcscomponents.kiev.ua/datasheets/upc1470ed3iuf.pdf- "RT" controls the torque and "RS" controls the speed.

 

RS is selected by the 33/45/78 switch, and RT is controlled by the pitch knob. So when you're varying the pitch you're actually varying the torque, dunno why it's set up like that. I'll rip it all out and experiment with different values of RT and RS when I get a chance - maybe we can get more torque at low speeds.

 

 

I'm going to try your Circuit with the 4066 when I get a chance if you don't mind, I do have a bag of them somewhere...I was never a fan of gutting those Vestax 06 / 05 and pros to make the Scratch boxes but it does work and they look good...

Yeah man I'd love for other people to have a go at building this thing, hit me up if you have any problems with it. Here's an updated version of the schematic that should be a bit more flexible as it has input signal biasing (will work on devices other than the PT-01) :

 

 

 

This Fader Cut Circuit would be a good kit to make by itself, that way it would be easy for anyone to add a Fader and make their own basic Scratch box or External Fader...

Yeah man, will have a few of these made up and see if anyone wants to buy them.

If you wanted to put them as a standalone faderbox you'd probably want to add input and output buffering, which is simple enough but would have added another 6 opamps to the design (so at least another 2 chips).

 

Would you mind sharing the PCB layout? Are you the Rasteri that's my facebook friend? I have some stuff I can share with you too...

Yeah man that's me, hit me up on facebook. I'm nearly finished the PCB design, here's what I've got so far :

 

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Guest Symatic

 

Well, I predicted it too...:-)....

 

Anyhow...I was going to message you because my game plan is to release "Precision Incisions" 2.5 or 2.6 :-) but you kinda beat me to the punch with your center label and alignment waveforms...

I was going to do that, with some artwork or markings but on the underside of the Record itself...

The point is that If you're dropping a 7 Inch record soon, I'd like to convince you to press some clear Vinyl so we can Frankenstein that sucker...I'm down to share some of the other secrets for the cause...

 

Yeah basically to do a clear vinyl or a pic disk vinyl or some sort of etching that would provide some sort of visual cueing system is the dream, but to do it on a pressed record is totally possible but expensive. Its about manually lining up your design with whats been already cut. And theres still a risk of the motion of the press affecting your carefully lined up stamper....

Its something i would love to do but will take time and money to perfect

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Well, I predicted it too...:-)....

 

Anyhow...I was going to message you because my game plan is to release "Precision Incisions" 2.5 or 2.6 :-) but you kinda beat me to the punch with your center label and alignment waveforms...

I was going to do that, with some artwork or markings but on the underside of the Record itself...

The point is that If you're dropping a 7 Inch record soon, I'd like to convince you to press some clear Vinyl so we can Frankenstein that sucker...I'm down to share some of the other secrets for the cause...

 

Yeah basically to do a clear vinyl or a pic disk vinyl or some sort of etching that would provide some sort of visual cueing system is the dream, but to do it on a pressed record is totally possible but expensive. Its about manually lining up your design with whats been already cut. And theres still a risk of the motion of the press affecting your carefully lined up stamper....

Its something i would love to do but will take time and money to perfect

 

 

Word, man excuse the 3 chapter post earlier...I over embellish a bit sometimes and it took away from this Turntable topic which I much preffer..:-)

 

Some of the pictures from my design books on facebook have drawings for a Skipless and Heaphoneless record...

Headphoneless is pretty much self explanantory...

 

The obstacles I had for any of the abstract ideas was that the engineers are

more geared towards cutting sound for quality and weren't open to doing or trying what I wanted...

 

...Lock Beats and Parallel Grooves and Record Playing Outwards are standard but some of the heavy duty ish would require finding a Mastering Engineer that was down to be experimental.

 

With that said, things have evolved now and I'm pretty sure they are more open to try different things...

I worked out a couple of methods to align the sounds back in the early 2000's and since then

There have been some advances in Record Cutting that has made it even easyer...

 

The Clear Records are for artwork after the record is pressed to be able to custom designs...

Worst case secenerio it's a novelty with custom graphics on vinyl like slipmats, best case scenerio Scratch Braniacs

run with it and make into something greater...

 

The alignment is just one small component of the full master plan..If you do press some 7 inch records, it be cool if you drop a few Clear

copies to experiment with, heck if everyone pressing 7 inch records did some Clear copies that ish would be ideal..

I have one in the works but don't think it will be out before all these that are already in the pipeline...Anywho, continued succes with what you

are doing,...

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Is the speed selector just a switch that switches between different value Resistors and the VR1 does the additional speed adjustment?

The motor speed control circuit is a mess of incomprehensible resistor networks, but it all boils down to the diagram on page 4 of this datasheet - http://www.rcscomponents.kiev.ua/datasheets/upc1470ed3iuf.pdf- "RT" controls the torque and "RS" controls the speed.

 

RS is selected by the 33/45/78 switch, and RT is controlled by the pitch knob. So when you're varying the pitch you're actually varying the torque, dunno why it's set up like that. I'll rip it all out and experiment with different values of RT and RS when I get a chance - maybe we can get more torque at low speeds.

 

 

I'm going to try your Circuit with the 4066 when I get a chance if you don't mind, I do have a bag of them somewhere...I was never a fan of gutting those Vestax 06 / 05 and pros to make the Scratch boxes but it does work and they look good...

Yeah man I'd love for other people to have a go at building this thing, hit me up if you have any problems with it. Here's an updated version of the schematic that should be a bit more flexible as it has input signal biasing (will work on devices other than the PT-01) :

 

 

 

This Fader Cut Circuit would be a good kit to make by itself, that way it would be easy for anyone to add a Fader and make their own basic Scratch box or External Fader...

Yeah man, will have a few of these made up and see if anyone wants to buy them.

If you wanted to put them as a standalone faderbox you'd probably want to add input and output buffering, which is simple enough but would have added another 6 opamps to the design (so at least another 2 chips).

 

Would you mind sharing the PCB layout? Are you the Rasteri that's my facebook friend? I have some stuff I can share with you too...

Yeah man that's me, hit me up on facebook. I'm nearly finished the PCB design, here's what I've got so far :

 

 

 

 

Super fresh, I'll hit you up on Facebook soon too....Making some kits so Scratch mofos can use their High Quality Faders is needed asap.

 

Some other plans I had was to make Kits to add Individual Outputs to the 05 Pros or any other mixer that might need it...That's from my SA-8 Signature Mixer and now added to the TRX Mixer but, it's just adding Op-Apm kits you know...Same with FX Sends and Returns...a few other kits in mind too...

 

I don't want to go into too much of the details but overall I think the new eco system is to make some kits aswell as have it be open source and those with skill can build of that and those that much rather pay and support Scratch Arts will do so...I saw the Scratch Fader Box you made too haha sick...

 

I noticed you were asking about making it purdier, I have some simple ways you can make your own faceplates, those freakin skins/printed vinyl stickers effed up the game plan so I never released these print your own faceplate kits but, you can definitely make them without any major tools...I'll give you that info too...

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Guest Symatic

When i have my own record lathe i'll hopefully be up for experimenting... But i get why engineers dont wanna go too crazy. A cutting head is a rate and valuable piece of kit, very expensive and tine consuming to repair, and if your business is using one of those fuckers, you dont wanna risk breaking it becaus dj cutsalot wants to make crazy seethrough skipless halfspeed records :)

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Guest rasteri

For anyone who wants to have a go at replacing the tonearm I've made some notes.

 

I think underhung straight tonearms (like the STR8-150 and Vestax PDX 2000 tonearms) are the way to go because they'll be more skip resistant and the manufacturing and maths is easier.

 

You may have to shorten the tonearm tube slightly because the pivot point in a PT-01 is closer to the centre of the record. The maths you need to work this out are in page 765 of http://www.tubebooks.org/Books/RDH4.pdf- basically you have to solve the underhang equation for L instead of Dopt. Clue : L = (D - Dopt)

 

(or you could just say fuck it and live with the slightly misaligned tracking, I bet it'd make no difference).

 

You can get STR8-150 tonearm assemblies from sales@focusrite.com for £72.50 inc VAT + £5.00 shipping. IMO we're better leaving the dwindling stock of Technics and Vestax tonearms to people who want to repair actual turntables.

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Guest rasteri

Wolfram Alpha reckon the maths goes like this :

 

 

So it's :

L = 0.5 * ( sqrt( 4C + D2 ) + D )

 

That's where :

L = The length the tonearm needs to be, from the pivot point to the needle

D = The distance from the tonearm pivot to the spindle

C = The record radius constant, (3.04 for 10 inch records, 3.18 for 12 inch records, see the Radiotron handbook)

 

C can be optimised for 7" records by measuring the outside and inside radius of a typical 7" record's grooves and plugging the values into this :

 

C = (R12 * R22) / (R12 + R22)

 

Where :

R1 = Outside radius of record groove

R2 = Inside radius of record groove

 

Now all someone needs to do is measure the distance from the PT-01's pivot point to the spindle (i.e. "D") and the inner/outer radius of a few 7" records (i.e. "R1"/"R2") and we can calculate the exact length a straight tonearm needs to be.

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Guest Symatic

Tone arm made out of a carbon fiber Arrow Shaft, and a hard drive motor / bearing assembly.

 

no evidence of how it sounds.... but i've seen people talking about hard drive components for other DIY audio projects, it seems theyre pretty well built in terms of accuracy / durability....

 

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Guest rasteri

That does look sexy. I really love the idea of using a carbon fibre arrow shaft as a tonearm tube :)

 

No way I can be arsed building one though. Not as long as SuperOEM parts are available.

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I think the center label sticker idea cud def be evolved as its a little small to read, I'm not sure the clear record method is that great as a next evolution... I see some cons.. It Wud push the price up a lot having to buy a pair of slipmats per record. It might suck a bit for the battlers that don't wanna adjust slipmats but might want to see the wavs. U'd need to fix the slipmat semi permanently to the record some how in an even way.. lots of people suggested the picture disc / pre attached central label thing but as sy said it's a pipe dream to manufacture to that accuracy in a viable way. Using stickers does allow for flexibility in your stickering method (12oclock / at the needle or others). My thoughts were to make the wavs colour coded so u can pick them out easier and maybe glow in the dark for dim conditions. Both tiny changes that suddenly double the cost tho :-(

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Saying that , there's no harm in making the records clear and maybe providing a file for people to print their own paper slipmats and figure out the fixing method themseleves..hmmm

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Guest Symatic

I think the center label sticker idea cud def be evolved as its a little small to read, I'm not sure the clear record method is that great as a next evolution... I see some cons.. It Wud push the price up a lot having to buy a pair of slipmats per record. It might suck a bit for the battlers that don't wanna adjust slipmats but might want to see the wavs. U'd need to fix the slipmat semi permanently to the record some how in an even way.. lots of people suggested the picture disc / pre attached central label thing but as sy said it's a pipe dream to manufacture to that accuracy in a viable way. Using stickers does allow for flexibility in your stickering method (12oclock / at the needle or others). My thoughts were to make the wavs colour coded so u can pick them out easier and maybe glow in the dark for dim conditions. Both tiny changes that suddenly double the cost tho :-(

 

i was thinking more of a scratch rec that was a pic disc - with the pic lined up with the sounds on the stamper, and then you'd needle drop according to the graphics rather than labels or grooves

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Guest rasteri

I've been speaking to wax inspektor (the dude who did the mods Sym posted, real nice guy) and it he says he's tried to mod a M44-7 onto the PT-01 but it didn't work - he got very quiet distorted audio. Probably an impedance mismatch, I'll investigate.

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hey there - funny someone found my old pt01 mod... that was some real primitive but effective stuff back in 2013..
i soldered a crossfader right under the volume potentiometer which was giving me a 3mm curve though... let's say it had a special feel to it..

i been through lot's of different faders and since none of them were "controlled" by a VCA they we're giving noises due dirt and stuff real quickly... the best result i had been with a pro-x-fade... it still had that curve but i never had to clean it. i even tried an innofader pro but i was getting real annoying electric click noises... now that i dig through this thread i think i might have found THE solution:)

my old pt01 mod contained some more gimmicks like a 2 channel mixer with tiny 20mm faders, 2 new speakers+amp, an internal mp3-player for beats (2GB), cue function for the turntable channel, start/stop button, technics tonearm clamp and 2 remote buttons for a boss loopstation (stop+track selection) oh.... and even a cheeky needle light... now that i look into it - it is a mess lol
it's been dead for some month now but i wanna update to akku and bluetooth for line in also soonish....



since most people think they can't do such mod on their own i been working on passive fader boxes for the past 3months... guess ya'll know about the frisk and the newer raiden fader... they're cool without a doubt but tbh that stuff can be done way better... my shot on a scratchbox - i call em the waxcutter - contains a real fader that runs on rails - super smooth and stable - and it cuts on a non contact / magnet base... so you can adjust the lenght of the cut in - not the curve though that's a super sharp cut (on/off switch) which is giving some click noises though - sometimes more sometimes less... that's still a bugger to me but it's the same on the raiden and frisk - it's because of the passive circuitry...


+





funny feature is the bluetooth line in / you can use it with a cable also though - it runs on 2x AAA's at the moment but akku (charging via usb) is set up already.. haven't found the right case yet...

i'm super happy to see that there is an active solution - can't wait to try that out - real curious how much space it takes...
giving such a box a batterie brings up so many cool opportunities - the real lag still is the turntable though...
a better needle is a must - i didn't succeed in putting a m44/7 to it - it's just like rasteri described....

oh and for the pitch mod - there is a neat trick right in the box.... just put the pitch switch BETWEEN 33 and 45 and you'll get a pitch of sth around 20 rpm... works on the handytrax and the pt01.
i wonder why not hanging a potentiometer right onto the motor and give it a huge pitch wheel u could control with your thumb?

sorry for the mega post and the language also... i'm no native english speaker...
super happy i found this spot - super inspirational... totally dig the idea of teaching each other...

maaaad props to rasteri for that circuitry and PCB design - other's would be sitting on this like the last bit of pot in town.

Edited by wax inspektor
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thanx mate! :$ that guy rasteri kills it though. so glad i found this place ...

i just made a list of all components - I count 16 resistors but they are labled up to No.18 - couldn't find the R12 & R16 though - just a tiny mistake I assume?!

 

R3 is a linear 2K potentiometer - is that correct?

++++edit+++++++++++++++++

capacitors:

4x 4,7uF
1x 10uF
4x 100nF

resistors:

4x 470R
1x 1K
1x 2K (lin. potentiometer)
5x 10K
3x 20K
2x 220K

ICs:

1x TL074D
1x 4013D
1x 4066D


(I left out the audio and power sockets.... )
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Edited by wax inspektor
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Guest rasteri

Hey man, looks right apart from the ICs, there's only one of each. the TL074 is a quad op amp, the 4066 is a quad audio switcher, and the 4013 is a dual D-type latch. If you look at the schematic the little number beside the pin tells you which pin on the actual device to use.

 

You can easily swap gates around if it makes wiring it easier, or if you want to use two TL072s instead of one TL074 you can do that if you want. It's up to you.

 

And yeah R3 is linear, although it doesn't really make a difference. 2k is the value (Although you can go higher than 2k if you can't find exactly 2k, or hell even just replace it with a fixed value resistor, probably 200-300ohm will do).

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Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... ;) little dudes got more legs then I thought...
It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?)



sorry if this electrical nonsense ;)

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I think the center label sticker idea cud def be evolved as its a little small to read, I'm not sure the clear record method is that great as a next evolution... I see some cons.. It Wud push the price up a lot having to buy a pair of slipmats per record. It might suck a bit for the battlers that don't wanna adjust slipmats but might want to see the wavs. U'd need to fix the slipmat semi permanently to the record some how in an even way.. lots of people suggested the picture disc / pre attached central label thing but as sy said it's a pipe dream to manufacture to that accuracy in a viable way. Using stickers does allow for flexibility in your stickering method (12oclock / at the needle or others). My thoughts were to make the wavs colour coded so u can pick them out easier and maybe glow in the dark for dim conditions. Both tiny changes that suddenly double the cost tho :-(

 

 

Get ready for a 10 chapter story with Typos like a mofo....I don't come out often but when I do I make up for it :-)...

 

 

The details were worked out along time ago in linear years, most of the design drawings/plans that I posted from my books on FB date back to the late 90's and early 2000's...I saw it as Mutiple evolutions going on...Scratch Techniques / Equipment and Scratch Records...I took them all serious :-)...

 

 

 

Notice the Stroboscope design on the Focus DSM-9 Slipmats? Had to do it like that so there where no aligment issues with the sublimation printing...Everything I did had/has a purpose...

 

 

To get it done where it is pressed into the record, requires preperation from beginning to end (Sound Design to Cutting to Pressing)..that's why you need an Mastering person that's a friend of a friend or some ish so he can be patient with it...I was also more introveretd back then and couldn't really express what I wanted to do...

I'd tell them something and they'd go down a different direction or act like it's dum idea or this is a silly haha...That was then, now it's different and we have better tools...It stills require money though that hasn't changed :-)...

 

As a quick example on some real simple and basic ish imho....

I wanted to do what I called a "Trap" like a Sand Trap in Golfing....

That was just Lock Grooves on the Outer Edge with or without sounds so that there would be a 1 to 1 1/2 inch

area on the outer egde, if the needle skipped badly it wouldn't go off the edge :-)....F*ckers didn't want to lock a track unto itself at the beginning of the record...Why? Swamp got it done...

 

How about start cutting at 1 to 2 inches from the the outer edge so there would be this large blank section on the edge for me to do some ill Nana Stuff with it haha....No go....I still need this by the way and hopefully part of my new release...

 

How about the Spreading? Blank Space between Tracks...They can adjust the spreading to give you better visual markers between tracks...You don't want to have to make a 10 second blank track just to get a better visual marker...

 

The trick was/is to know what they will do or can do and then improvise around that...

 

 

Back to graphics......

 

 

To get it done after the fact it....

 

You're are right Printed Slipmats / Custom Print on record / Custom Printing Graphic Sheets...

 

1.

The Printed Slipmats are doable and can be elaborated on with a few twists...See DSM-9 Slipmats...

 

2.

Printing onto the Record or Engraving or Laser Etching....

I've done the Printing and Engraving, no Laser Etched but same as Engraving for most part......

 

12 Inch Skinz prints directly on the records underside to print on the Vinyl Adhesive for the Mixer Stickers

you have to use Solvent Ink, same ish as they use for outdoor signs... You can find a Silkscreen Shop/Print Shop

that has a DTG Printer (Direct to Garment) and you can get your Vinyl Printed for $20 or less out here in the US.

They make a White Solvent Ink for those printers so it will lay down a white background and everything prints fresh..Probably Clear Coat it with some Krylon or Art Clear Spray...

 

As a side note, that plastic feel from those stickers was never my thing, the full color graphics is what gets

everyone going though....

 

In the beginning most of this dudes were making Paper Stickers for the Center Labels

and Clear Coating them...That's how I use to do it too...One of my friends ordered some online and when they arrived the smell of the Clear Coat was still strong haha...He was mad as hell for sure... :-)

 

 

 

That leaves us with:

 

3. Doing the Custom Printed Sheets....You just make yourself a pictrure disc after the fact, just for show or aligning sounds...

 

This works good, some assembly required....

 

This is just one of the Features for my own ish and not the main feature but since there are already some of you dropping vinyl then I thought it be coo if we got some Clears to experiment with...They could be a small run of the pressing plants minimums...

 

 

 

I left out some of the real meat because I'm not trying to give it all away otherwise my on work will loose it's thunder plus next thing you know, Dirtystyle records new innovation, them dudes can be cut throat with their competion, definitely jealous of those rich mo fos.. :-)

 

If anyone of you are dropping Vinyl soon and want some more details on some of this, I'm down to share...send me a message via FB or E-mail ...

Edited by Focus
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I've been speaking to wax inspektor (the dude who did the mods Sym posted, real nice guy) and it he says he's tried to mod a M44-7 onto the PT-01 but it didn't work - he got very quiet distorted audio. Probably an impedance mismatch, I'll investigate.

 

Those M44-7 have a really high output too, it might need to be attenuated a bit...

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Guest rasteri

Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... ;) little dudes got more legs then I thought...

It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?)

 

 

sorry if this electrical nonsense ;)

 

 

 

You can replace the fader/schmitt trigger with a reed switch but not by putting it in line with the audio. You'd have the switch connected to V+ and the latches, then have a pulldown resistor in parallel with it. Check this schematic : http://i.imgur.com/24srenX.png

 

No need to make it mono either :)

 

Oh and for C8/C9 I'd use 1uF bipolar caps instead of the 4.7uF in the schematic. Make sure you note the difference between electrolytic and bipolar caps.

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Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... ;) little dudes got more legs then I thought...

It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?)

 

 

sorry if this electrical nonsense ;)

 

 

 

You can replace the fader/schmitt trigger with a reed switch but not by putting it in line with the audio. You'd have the switch connected to V+ and the latches, then have a pulldown resistor in parallel with it. Check this schematic : http://i.imgur.com/24srenX.png

 

No need to make it mono either :)

 

Oh and for C8/C9 I'd use 1uF bipolar caps instead of the 4.7uF in the schematic. Make sure you note the difference between electrolytic and bipolar caps.

 

Damn man... thanx for all the help :) you even made a reed version of the circuit - that's just GREAT!!

 

will try both versions once the IC's arrived ...

 

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Guest petesasqwax

this thread is fucking incredible! I'll probably never actually bother getting a PT-01 or Raiden fader, but I can't tell you how happy all this shit makes me, irrespective of that.

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