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Numark PT-01 modding thread


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#41 Symatic

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 10:36 AM

Nice to meet you wax inspektor, you absolute fuckin badass!!! :)
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#42 wax inspektor

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 04:37 PM

thanx mate!   :$ that guy rasteri kills it though. so glad i found this place ... 

i just made a list of all components - I count 16 resistors but they are labled up to No.18 - couldn't find the R12 & R16 though - just a tiny mistake I assume?!

 

R3 is a linear 2K potentiometer - is that correct?

++++edit+++++++++++++++++

capacitors:

4x 4,7uF
1x 10uF
4x 100nF

resistors:

4x 470R
1x 1K
1x 2K (lin. potentiometer)
5x 10K
3x 20K
2x 220K

ICs:

1x TL074D
1x 4013D
1x 4066D


(I left out the audio and power sockets.... )
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Edited by wax inspektor, 03 August 2015 - 08:17 AM.


#43 rasteri

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 08:08 PM

Hey man, looks right apart from the ICs, there's only one of each. the TL074 is a quad op amp, the 4066 is a quad audio switcher, and the 4013 is a dual D-type latch. If you look at the schematic the little number beside the pin tells you which pin on the actual device to use.

 

You can easily swap gates around if it makes wiring it easier, or if you want to use two TL072s instead of one TL074 you can do that if you want. It's up to you.

 

And yeah R3 is linear, although it doesn't really make a difference. 2k is the value (Although you can go higher than 2k if you can't find exactly 2k, or hell even just replace it with a fixed value resistor, probably 200-300ohm will do).



#44 wax inspektor

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Posted 31 July 2015 - 10:25 PM

Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... ;) little dudes got more legs then I thought...
It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?)

tybhp4qvtapv.png

sorry if this electrical nonsense ;)

 


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#45 Focus

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Posted 01 August 2015 - 03:59 AM

I think the center label sticker idea cud def be evolved as its a little small to read, I'm not sure the clear record method is that great as a next evolution... I see some cons.. It Wud push the price up a lot having to buy a pair of slipmats per record. It might suck a bit for the battlers that don't wanna adjust slipmats but might want to see the wavs. U'd need to fix the slipmat semi permanently to the record some how in an even way.. lots of people suggested the picture disc / pre attached central label thing but as sy said it's a pipe dream to manufacture to that accuracy in a viable way. Using stickers does allow for flexibility in your stickering method (12oclock / at the needle or others). My thoughts were to make the wavs colour coded so u can pick them out easier and maybe glow in the dark for dim conditions. Both tiny changes that suddenly double the cost tho :-(

 

 

Get ready for a 10 chapter story with Typos like a mofo....I don't come out often but when I do I make up for it :-)...

 

 

 The details were worked out along time ago in linear years, most of the design drawings/plans that I posted from my books on FB date back to the late 90's and early 2000's...I saw it as Mutiple evolutions going on...Scratch Techniques / Equipment and Scratch Records...I took them all serious :-)...

 

 

 

Notice the Stroboscope design on the Focus DSM-9 Slipmats? Had to do it like that so there where no aligment issues with the sublimation printing...Everything I did had/has a purpose...

 

 

To get it done where it is pressed into the record, requires preperation from beginning to end (Sound Design to Cutting to Pressing)..that's why you need an Mastering person that's a friend of a friend or some ish so he can be patient with it...I was also more introveretd back then and couldn't really express what I wanted to do...

I'd tell them something and they'd go down a different direction or act like it's dum idea or this is a silly haha...That was then, now it's different and we have better tools...It stills require money though that hasn't changed :-)...

 

As a quick example on some real simple and basic ish imho....

I wanted to do what I called a "Trap" like a Sand Trap in Golfing....

That was just Lock Grooves on the Outer Edge with or without sounds so that there would be a 1 to 1 1/2 inch

area on the outer egde, if the needle skipped badly it wouldn't go off the edge :-)....F*ckers didn't want to lock a track unto itself at the beginning of the record...Why? Swamp got it done...

 

How about start cutting at 1  to  2 inches from the the outer edge so there would be this large blank section on the edge for me to do some ill Nana Stuff with it haha....No go....I still need this by the way and hopefully part of my new release...

 

How about the Spreading? Blank Space between Tracks...They can adjust the spreading to give you better visual markers between tracks...You don't want to have to make a 10 second blank track just to get a better visual marker...

 

The trick was/is to know what they will do or can do and then improvise around that...

 

 

Back to graphics......

 

 

To get it done after the fact it....

 

You're are right Printed Slipmats / Custom Print on record / Custom Printing Graphic Sheets...

 

1.

The Printed Slipmats are doable and can be elaborated on with a few twists...See DSM-9 Slipmats...

 

2.

Printing onto the Record or Engraving or Laser Etching....

I've done the Printing and Engraving, no Laser Etched but same as Engraving for most part......

 

12 Inch Skinz  prints directly on the records underside to print on the Vinyl Adhesive for the Mixer Stickers

you have to use Solvent Ink, same ish as they use for outdoor signs... You can find a Silkscreen Shop/Print Shop

that has a DTG Printer (Direct to Garment) and you can get your Vinyl Printed for $20 or less out here in the US.

They make a White Solvent Ink for those printers so it will lay down a white background and everything prints fresh..Probably Clear Coat it with some Krylon or Art Clear Spray...

 

As a side note, that plastic feel from those stickers was never my thing, the full color graphics is what gets

everyone going though....

 

In the beginning most of this dudes were making Paper Stickers for the Center Labels

and Clear Coating them...That's how I use to do it too...One of my friends ordered some online and when they arrived the smell of the Clear Coat was still strong haha...He was mad as hell for sure... :-)

 

 

 

That leaves us with:

 

3. Doing the Custom Printed Sheets....You just make yourself a pictrure disc after the fact, just for show or aligning sounds...

 

This works good, some assembly required....

 

This is just one of the Features for my own ish and not the main feature but since there are already some of you dropping vinyl then I thought it be coo if we got some Clears to experiment with...They could be a small run of the pressing plants minimums...

 

 

 

I left out some of the real meat because I'm not trying to give it all away otherwise my on work will loose it's thunder plus next  thing you know, Dirtystyle records new innovation, them dudes can be cut throat with their competion, definitely jealous of those rich mo fos.. :-)

 

If anyone of you are dropping Vinyl soon and want some more details on some of this, I'm down to share...send me a message via FB or E-mail ...


Edited by Focus, 01 August 2015 - 04:08 AM.

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#46 Focus

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Posted 01 August 2015 - 04:17 AM

I've been speaking to wax inspektor (the dude who did the mods Sym posted, real nice guy) and it he says he's tried to mod a M44-7 onto the PT-01 but it didn't work - he got very quiet distorted audio. Probably an impedance mismatch, I'll investigate.

 

Those M44-7 have a really high output too, it might need to be attenuated a bit...



#47 rasteri

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Posted 01 August 2015 - 09:09 AM

Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... ;) little dudes got more legs then I thought...
It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?)

tybhp4qvtapv.png

sorry if this electrical nonsense ;)

 

 

You can replace the fader/schmitt trigger with a reed switch but not by putting it in line with the audio. You'd have the switch connected to V+ and the latches, then have a pulldown resistor in parallel with it. Check this schematic : http://i.imgur.com/24srenX.png

 

No need to make it mono either :)

 

Oh and for C8/C9 I'd use 1uF bipolar caps instead of the 4.7uF in the schematic. Make sure you note the difference between electrolytic and bipolar caps.


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#48 wax inspektor

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Posted 01 August 2015 - 11:48 PM

 

Thanx a bunch man - checked the datasheets meanwhile and seen the obvious too... ;) little dudes got more legs then I thought...
It's pretty cool that you named each section of the circuit - learning a lot through this also. I wonder if that circuit could be modified though, so I still could use a reed switch to cut the signal? Just leave out the schmitt trigger section and keep the turntable input mono? The reason I wanna do this is the super nice fader you'll get if you take off the wipers...so basicly it's just a slider with a magnet underneath on 2 rails - feels like a inno mini but costs like 8€ only- with the wipers on it's going to be...uhm... average or even worse and I would have to jump on more expensive faders. ...so I thought maybe the following zero cross detection could kill my click noises? I wouldn't necessarly need a curve control (that's what schmitty is doin - right?)

tybhp4qvtapv.png

sorry if this electrical nonsense ;)

 

 

You can replace the fader/schmitt trigger with a reed switch but not by putting it in line with the audio. You'd have the switch connected to V+ and the latches, then have a pulldown resistor in parallel with it. Check this schematic : http://i.imgur.com/24srenX.png

 

No need to make it mono either :)

 

Oh and for C8/C9 I'd use 1uF bipolar caps instead of the 4.7uF in the schematic. Make sure you note the difference between electrolytic and bipolar caps.

 

Damn man... thanx for all the help :)  you even made a reed version of the circuit - that's just GREAT!!

will try both versions once the IC's arrived ...
 



#49 rasteri

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 05:51 PM

PCB arrived. Will churn out more if it works.
GfxZEWdh.jpg
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#50 petesasqwax

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Posted 10 August 2015 - 09:08 AM

this thread is fucking incredible! I'll probably never actually bother getting a PT-01 or Raiden fader, but I can't tell you how happy all this shit makes me, irrespective of that. 


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Look, we should all know by now Pete doesn't get into that shiny G-Funk sound. If it doesn't sound like a discarded flip-flop hitting an old bin lid, recorded onto a dictaphone, then pressed to shellac and buried in a pile of gravel for thirty years, dug up and sampled on an S950 with a broken dial, he ain't fucking with it.


#51 Symatic

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Posted 10 August 2015 - 10:53 AM

rasteri = bossman



#52 dj justin time

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 02:05 AM

I wouldnt mind buying a record that was single sided. So mek it clear and stik a 12" sticker on one side so it shows through. It will probably show through a lot clearer stuck to the record anywayz. like ad says illuminous colour coded sections. Of course to be the ultimate record id want samples that all line up/ tie in with each other for needle dropping fun and to get the most out of the colour coding. To really top it off make the last section a traktor tone/or even both so I can cut with skiples and instantly switch to samples of my name or disses or whatever. Pisses me right off when im doing well on the cut and I needle drop onto the wrong bit. Doin it in da club wud be sometimes impossible this wax wud solve it. Id buy it defo!
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#53 dj justin time

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 02:12 AM

Even if u aint got traktor u still get an annoying whistle tone to cut with. :)

#54 dj justin time

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 02:19 AM

Also is it cheaper to press one side?

#55 Symatic

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 12:42 PM

get this clear 12" dubplate from Dubstudio.

 

http://www.dubstudio...le-plates-clear

 

its a pair of 12" clear or black, that you can have different tracks on each record. £45 for the pair.



#56 dj justin time

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 09:11 PM

So for 45 notes I cud make my own custom colour coded ultimate battle wax a.k.a multi wax

#57 djdiggla

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 09:22 PM

Just catching up with this thread... gonna try and drop my transformer switch in this week. Then hoping to do the audio input mod but not entirely sure what I need to do... very little electrical knowledge... Do I put the resisters on a little board so they don't move around as much?


 Have you considered getting an RME? 

 

 


#58 rasteri

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 12:23 PM

Best place to put the switch and AUX in would be after C8/C18.

To add the switch, you'll have to de-solder the negative legs of C8/C18, and wire a switch in series with them.

For the AUX in, also wire a 470ohm resistors in series with the switch, wire same value resistors in series with your AUX input, and then connect them together onto the solder pad on the PCB that the negative legs of C8/C18 were originally wired to.

I'll draw you a diagram when I get a min.
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#59 Symatic

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 12:30 PM

I'll draw you a diagram when I get a min.

 

yes please. imagine you are explaining this to a small crackhead monkey :)


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#60 djdiggla

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 03:41 PM

^^What he said. 

 

 

Best place to put the switch and AUX in would be after C8/C18.

To add the switch, you'll have to de-solder the negative legs of C8/C18, and wire a switch in series with them.

For the AUX in, also wire a 470ohm resistors in series with the switch, wire same value resistors in series with your AUX input, and then connect them together onto the solder pad on the PCB that the negative legs of C8/C18 were originally wired to.

I'll draw you a diagram when I get a min.

 

For the AUX plug would I want a closed or open one? 


 Have you considered getting an RME? 

 

 



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