Obi1jacobi Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Maybe it's an iPhone thing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Maybe it's an iPhone thing....It could be related to safari yup! Anyways I get workarounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELGEE Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Isn't it easier to just place a teflon coated plastic ring around the outer edge under the platter to take up the space so there is only a 1 mm or less gap between the platter and the bottom of the platter recess ?Yes, it would have been easier. But it only fiddles with the sympton, not the problem cause. I just adjusted the PT01's 33 and 45 settings with the help of the Dr. Feickert record/app. 33 as well as 45 were set ~1.2 rpm low. Flutter at 33 rpm is ±1.3%, bytheway, at 45 it's ±0.8%. rI didn't mean my comment to seem negitive if it did. you are doing the the best mods out there.i think it's great that you are trying to do things properly, installations of custom parts rather than mod/hacks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) I didn't mean my comment to seem negitive if it did.I don't understand... no, not at all... to me, it was "technical question, technical answer". I had intended to add one or two sentences, going into detail, but usually, even when I try to keep it short, it just escalates into loooong pamphlets... so here's the long version: The PT01 platter's "flutter" starts in one particular place at the center. Mechanically, a turntable platter is "a disc, connected to a bearing". In this case, particular case, the "bearing" is a tubular bronze piece. In terms of stiffness, the bearing's OK, and the disc would be OK, too. But they messed up the connection between those two. With aluminum, this would have been an excellent and rugged solution. But with plastics, You just can't do like they did. You need reinforecment ribs, use all three dimensions, to shape a stiff part. "Stiffness" is not to be confused with "strength", bytheway.I don't expect a PT01 to feel like my 1200, but it hurts to see that the platter could have been so much stronger from the beginning, if just one knowledgeable and caring person would have had a look... they did make some little reinforcement ribs in the "2nd circle", but not in the very center where it's dearly necessary.(it wouldn't even be a problem to retrofit that to their existing tools, would probably only cost $2.000) Long story short: Reinforce and stiffen that particular area, and You cured the problem. It is surely not the only solution, and definitely not the cheapest solution. But it's the most natural approach, and in terms of "design quality" it definitely is the best approach. "Platter bars" surely do their job for scratching, but it's safe to say that in any case (even with Teflon), the unamplified audio signal will not benefit from knocking and rubbing plastic onto plastic. If I had to choose, I would want to avoid that, just because. That obvious "weak spot" had caught my attention, and the fact that I own a 3D printer came handy, of course ;-) The funny thing is that the platter is in fact a lot stiffer now, but the turntable as a whole is not. Needle skipping was not a huge problem before, mostly a matter of "force adjustment", compared to a full-size aluminum platter. And it was pretty much gone afterwards. But that's just my uneducated lame old hands :-D Just after that, a friend of mine ("retired" Hip-Hop DJ from the 90s) played with it and put it to good use for a while, and it did not skip at all, set at 2.5 gramms, bytheway. Speaking of "whole turntable" stiffness: When I mechanically stress the platter now (placing a ~1 kg weight on the far outside), it flexes a lot less, of course, but it also bends in a different place. If I look closely, I can see the center pin's tip move a little bit. And I'm pretty sure that before it didn't. That's the curse of mechanic assemplies, You make one part stiffer/stronger, and it shows that the following part turns cannot keep up. I fear that making the PT01 stiffer, without the potential to make it stronger (because "strength" goes hand in hand with "weight", and it's a mobile device) means to walk in the wrong direction. The stiffer parts are worse in terms of transmitting vibration, resonate at higher frequencies, rumble,... In terms of "resonances", the 7" turntable is in disadvantage anyway, compared to the full-size turntable. Not only does a "stationary turntable" benefit from being able to add mass to make everything strong. They also use the available space to isolate the tonearm from turntable from motor. On the PT01, it's all just one single wobbly plastic part. I guess we all agree that "it works quite fine", and I start to believe that flex is essential to why it works. Another disadvantage is that the parts (platter, tonearm) are smaller, therefor inevitable resonate at higher frequencies. On fullsize turntables, they "hide" these resonances in the non-audible frequency spectrum. but for a 7" portable, I guess we simply cannot expect any "reasonable" sound signal below 70 or 80 Hz... Anyway, I'm making a new stiffer platter right now, just because. Here's the "lower part" on a first functional test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJvNUiiazeUI just glued to the "upper part", it'll need 12 hours to cure... r Edited March 4, 2017 by rasputin 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELGEE Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Respect 👊🏻 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) Speeded up curing by tempering the whole thing at 40°. It turned out perfectly flat, and more concentric than I had expected. 93 gramms heavy, only 10 more than the stock platter. It's amazingly stiff, and worked very well in a short first test. I don't like printing in black colour (because any sanding/filing will be visible, and You almost always need to), but ran out of grey. This makes the platter's top even more "realistic", even when on that platter, it's numerous concentric circles, not one huge spiral like on a record. The honeycomb pattern is a total "engineering overdose" (printing the whole platter took 24 hours), but whatever... This platter does not have any dedicated "bearing". I tried to find some, but Numark are using a non-standard diameter... I considered using a standard dimension bearing and then re-bore it, but in the end just gave it a try like this. PLA is not a very durable material, but has a surprisingly low friction coefficient if a bit of oil is used (for the video, no oil was used yet). A serious turntablist might wreck it in hours or days for sure, but for some easy scratching and further research, it's perfect. The central area is reset by 0.2 mm. I intended to "compensate" for the sticker and/or thickness change on many 7" records. I'd like to have the record resting only on the "sound area". Otherwise, one'd be always "wobble" any record around its center area. On 12" records, the relations are different, so this does not matter. But for 7" records, it's obvious. Put the slipmat onto a table or floor, put a 7" concentrically onto it, and then press Your finger onto the one side and watch the other side (where the stylus would be)... they all move quite remarkably. Of course, that stock slipmat does not really help here (haven't seen any aftermarket slipmats unfortunately), but it'll always "be there". So far, it makes no difference. Maybe I should have gone deeper or larger diameter a bit... Actually, the recess in the platter is only "fiddling with a symptom". This recess should be in the slipmat, that's where the "problem" originates. Furthermore, there should be another recess at the very center, "compensating" for 7" adapters. So that those oldschool ones that are permanently clamped don't stick out, but also to have any adapter "puck" underrun the record by a half-millimeter or so, which would highly improve reliability (the stock one is terrible, bytheway). Has anyone ever picked up the idea of making such "profiled slipmats" or the like? Someone please make one for me (I'd even provide the data) This platter is ~1.5mm higher and 4mm larger than the stock one. Increasing height worsens the lever arm (of scratcher's fingers to tonearm bearing) and center of gravity, therefor it's only higher because I wanted it to be larger. I tried to make the platter "visible", like on a 1200, but unfortunately there's not much room to do so. I also had to print a new headshell to compensate for the height difference.r edit: I improved the shape of where the rubber belt runs, too... Edited March 5, 2017 by rasputin 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rasteri Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 fucking sick man. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Maybe someone find this interesting.https://www.gofundme.com/help-me-make-the-7ps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexinoodle Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Wonder why he didn't just use kickstarter and offer tiers with product ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Well, Rasteri/Mark maybe could answer about it. https://djworx.com/gofundme-7ps-portablist-dream/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1chicago Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 does anyone have an install guide for the PYLE preamp? It's no longer on beatshelter and the youtube version is a 100MPH slideshow with no info. I'm up to the point where I removed the C18 and C8 capacitors and I'm ready to start adding the pyle preamp but now I'm seeing what looks like the power of the pyle board going to a 9v power adapter and 9v battery? Can anyone confirm this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low3 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) does anyone have an install guide for the PYLE preamp? It's no longer on beatshelter and the youtube version is a 100MPH slideshow with no info. I'm up to the point where I removed the C18 and C8 capacitors and I'm ready to start adding the pyle preamp but now I'm seeing what looks like the power of the pyle board going to a 9v power adapter and 9v battery? Can anyone confirm this? hi there I signed up to research about this as I'm going to try and install a tonearm to run a m447 on my pt01 scratch as well. I have found the page from using webhistory, this saves snapshots of webpages and luckily this one is on there-The beat shelter guide to pyle 444https://web.archive.org/web/20160509192429/http://www.beatshelter.com/?p=762 Id like to get the newer beatshelter amp as it looks a lot easier to fit that one but i might try this like you are doing as i have already got nearly all the parts.What sort of wires do you have to use to connect between the pyle and the pt01 boards, for the three red /white/black line wire(step 10), and also the power red /black wire? is their a grade of wire i should use or is like rca wire ?Thanks in advance, good luck Edited March 9, 2017 by Low3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1chicago Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 does anyone have an install guide for the PYLE preamp? It's no longer on beatshelter and the youtube version is a 100MPH slideshow with no info. I'm up to the point where I removed the C18 and C8 capacitors and I'm ready to start adding the pyle preamp but now I'm seeing what looks like the power of the pyle board going to a 9v power adapter and 9v battery? Can anyone confirm this? hi there I signed up to research about this as I'm going to try and install a tonearm to run a m447 on my pt01 scratch as well. I have found the page from using webhistory, this saves snapshots of webpages and luckily this one is on there-The beat shelter guide to pyle 444https://web.archive.org/web/20160509192429/http://www.beatshelter.com/?p=762 Id like to get the newer beatshelter amp as it looks a lot easier to fit that one but i might try this like you are doing as i have already got nearly all the parts.What sort of wires do you have to use to connect between the pyle and the pt01 boards, for the three red /white/black line wire(step 10), and also the power red /black wire? is their a grade of wire i should use or is like rca wire ?Thanks in advance, good luck I had a few multicolors of this laying around from some earlier projects, worked fine for me:http://www.ebay.com/itm/400645005466?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1chicago Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Ended up having a hard time understanding some stuff on the beatshelter pyle preamp installation video but it all worked itself out in the end, I installed the biharitonearm from portableskinz and a shure m44-7 needle long boring installation of the tonearm video here and some scribbles and such to put it through the paces 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) Has anyone ever picked up the idea of making such "profiled slipmats" or the like?I found 'em. They're called "Dr. Suzuki" slipmats. I love it. r Edited March 21, 2018 by rasputin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 The last time I talk with a openbuilds dealer he told me that igus/iglidur have some obsolescency meanwhile their open solution are made to persist better the time pass. https://youtu.be/eCr1ogUuNPA http://www.openbuilds.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) The last time I talk with a openbuilds dealer he told me that igus/iglidur have some obsolescency meanwhile their open solution are made to persist better the time pass.I don't fully understand (English is not my native tongue)... with "obsolescency", do You mean "outdated", or "built to wear faster, so You can sell more replacement parts", or...? Bytheway, the "iglidur" bearings in my videos are rotational bearings, not linear bearings like the "DryLin" in Your video. r Edited March 15, 2017 by rasputin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 The second one meaning He told me about "material" build to not last so I understood any linear (I asked him for these I put in the first video). Not sure about rotational neither but if you find something similar in openbuilds database it should be more durable IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 has anyone added a bracelet for better torque/control? i know the ultrapitch is sensitive at low levels but my platter rotation just doesn't feel as strong. adding the bracelet definitely stretches the belt, so i'm being cautious before trying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 (edited) The second one meaning He told me about "material" build to not last so I understood any linear (I asked him for these I put in the first video).Sounds like a conspiracy theory to me. igus' main customers are industrial companies (automotive, food/medicine, etc.) who buy thousands or millions of parts per year, and the industry's quite simple: If Your products don't last, they'll buy elsewhere. I'm a huge fan of the "maker" movement, but sometimes they just exagerate and escalate... r Edited March 16, 2017 by rasputin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutis Mayfield Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 The second one meaning He told me about "material" build to not last so I understood any linear (I asked him for these I put in the first video). Sounds like a conspiracy theory to me. igus' main customers are industrial companies (automotive, food/medicine, etc.) who buy thousands or millions of parts per year, and the industry's quite simple: If Your products don't last, they'll buy elsewhere. I'm a huge fan of the "maker" movement, but sometimes they just exagerate and escalate... rIt could be sure but how these business manage other parts makes me believe it a bit. Also these people build lots of machines everyday so some experience seems legit. Anyways maybe we will not notice it in our "project" since it's not so heavy working as cnc mill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 has anyone added a bracelet for better torque/control? i know the ultrapitch is sensitive at low levels but my platter rotation just doesn't feel as strong. adding the bracelet definitely stretches the belt, so i'm being cautious before trying...has anyone discovered out a belt replacement for the pt01/pt01 scratch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasputin Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 (edited) It could be sure but how these business manage other parts makes me believe it a bit. Also these people build lots of machines everyday so some experience seems legit. Anyways maybe we will not notice it in our "project" since it's not so heavy working as cnc mill These parts are used in aeroplanes and helicopters and heavy machinery, but I totally understand that they aren't "good enough" for a DIY toy router ;-) It's one thing to say "a part does not last". Common explanations are "wrong part choice", "wrong usage", and "overload". But let's blame it all on somebody else, and to take it one step further, let's claim that "they" did that on purpose, because they follow a hidden agenda". That guy's bullshitting, as defined by Harry Frankfurt. Anyway, You are right about the rather low forces in a turntable, so they'll surely do a great job there. has anyone discovered out a belt replacement for the pt01/pt01 scratch?d =94 mmh = 5 mms = 0.45 mm Available through audio equipment spare parts dealers. r Edited March 16, 2017 by rasputin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iexist Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 which dealers breh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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