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N00b Headshell question -- they universal? Or stick to OEM headshells?


djdiggla

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So, I picked up a Numark TTX off ebay a while back and just been using the Ortofon Serato branded stylus which was already mounted on a Technics headshell from when I had a Tech (which I regrettably sold). I'm not really having any problems per say but is it advised to use OEM headshells? Which I assume would be the Numark headshell altho I do see that Orto makes one too. It seems the Numark headshell is lighter which is one reason I ask but it's balanced and everything. I just wondered tho... I have the Numark headshell already so it would be easy to switch but don't really want to go through the trouble for no reason.

 

 

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Guest rasteri

Eh it doesn't really make a difference. If it worked on your technics it'll work on the TTX.

 

Just make sure it's mounted straight on. Wouldn't hurt to check the overhang too if you haven't already, use an overhang gauge or just a ruler :

 

52mm is probably what you're aiming for.

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Guest rasteri

Don't TTX's have straight arms? I've started angling mine on straight arms and it SEEMS like I get less burn that way.

Yeah don't do that.... it KIND OF makes sense to angle them for S-arms (although I still think it's a dumb idea) but you absolutely shouldn't for straight arms, they already have excessive angular offset. Most important thing is to get the height and headshell-connector-to-stylus distance correct.

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Ok, couple things.

 

1) TTX has straight and S tone arms. I have the straight on it. Should I switch to S? As an aside, to balance the (straight) arm I am having to put the +3g weight on the headshell.

 

2) The Numark headshells suck. I put my needle on and then took it off shortly after. They look weird, the overhang is all fucked. Seems like they balance funny. Pins are all big and kinda fucked up one of the wires a little. Etc.

 

3) Regarding the headshell to stylus distance: I'm using the little L tool to measure the distance... So should I be matching the tool (and as a result headshell) to the end of the plastic on the stylus or the actual end of the diamond tip needle part (not sure the name but the actual little needle metal bit). Right now I matched the end of the plastic but that's a mm or so longer than the actual tiny needle. Too minimal to matter?

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Answered my own question for #3.

 

 

 



:::Headshells:::
Everybody has their own opinion as to exactly what are the best Headshells for the Technics 1200/1210 series of Turntables. This is our webpage and these are only our opinions, but but keep in mind that we have seen hundreds of different setups and spent hundreds of hours engaged in practical "real world" use of the various systems on the market.

Here is what we have determined:


1. Stick with the Factory Technics Headshell.

Why?

Because first of all it was designed for the 1200/1210 series, and it comes with Gold contacts that are exactly the same as the contacts found inside the Tonearm. Thus, there will not be a corosion problem which occurs when two dissimilar metals are in contact. This situation causes one metal, which is less noble to give off electrons too easily to another metal which is more noble. Technics tonearms have contacts that are gold, so what you have, my friend, becomes a science fair project on dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion...sort of like a small battery where the least noble metal (anode) gives off electrons to the more noble metal (cathode) causing a buildup of resistence in the circuit and a degradation of the signal to the point that it may even become noexistent.


We have cartridges in stock for both MK2 models as well as M3D models.

The M3D type includes the extra 4g headshell weight for heavy backcuing and scratching and will fit any model Technics.



2. Do not buy any "copycat" headshell made by any other manufacturer. Many of these use Nickel Plating for their channel contacts. The channel contact orientation, or spacing arrangement is not exactly designed for the Technics. How could a cartridge with another manufacturer's name on it be designed for a Technics? They were designed for their particular brand of Turntable System, or as a generic "one size fits all" model. Stay away from these at all costs.

:::Cartridges:::

There are more Cartridges out there than we care to count.

Some use the Factory Headshell, while others have designs which effectively have done away with the Standard Headshell setup in exchange for an integrated "all in one design"

So, which Cartridge should you buy?

Here is our opinion about the many styles of DJ Cartridges out there. Remember this is only our opinion, so please do not get mad if we say something that you do not like or disagree with.

Whichever you buy, you probably want it to be your last. You also want to make sure that you will be able to get replacement Styli for it. We predict that the inability to get replcement Styli will be a major issue, especially for some of the newer releases on the market. Many of these will simply never sell enough, or become popular enough to continue to support them in the area of replacement parts.


Here are some cartridge recommendations:

  1. Stay away the "all in one designs" as these are at best a compromise with regaurds to thrust angle setting. There is no ability to set the angle at which the Stylus tracks across the record surface. We think these were designed to simply look cool and make it easier to set up a cartridge.
  2. Stick with the OEM headshell and add to it a cartridge which best suits your style of Music & Mixing
The following are a few models which have been around for long enough to ensure replacement parts, as well as have proven themselves on the field of battle.

  1. STANTON 500AL - (Later released as the 505 & DJ Craze Signature Edition) - Good carts on a budget for everyone. Especially good for the Hip Hop & Junglists out there.
  2. STANTON 680HP - ( Eariler models were known as 680EL) - the 680 series were the indusrty standard for niteclub / DJ use throughout the 80's and into the 90's. Stanton beefed up the cantilever and pumped up the output voltage to deliver the 680HP. These can be bought new in "matched sets", in which Stanton has precisely matched the specifications for each cartridge. These are great for extended playback style mixing such as House/Progressive/Trance genres.
  3. ORTOFON CONCORDE SERIES - (OEM cartridge mount series) This series has many sub models. They are all nearly the same as far as specifications. The finest ones out there are the NITECLUB models with the (E) Eliptical stylus, as the Eliptical stylus reaches deeper into the record groove and brings out more sound, especially on older, worn out records.
  4. SHURE M44 -7 - Turntablism and mixing really bass drum heavy stuff... This is designed for high skip resistence, and BIG BASS!. The output levels are fully pumped @ 9.5 mV!, and the sound is thick... The Frequency Response is from 20hz-17khz..
  5. SHURE M44G - These are more detailed with higher frequency response up to 19hz.
  6. SHURE M35 - this tasty cartridge comes in two flavors , the "X" and the "S" models...Go for the "X".

Now on to the setup.....


1. Preparation of the Cartridge
  • First you will need to follow the cartridge's instructions to correctly attach it to the headshell.
  • Use a shell weight ( the square one) between the cartridge and the headshell only when attaching a light cartridge which is between 3.5 and 6.5 grams.
  • The wires are color coded as follows:
  1. Blue = Left Channel Ground
  2. White = Left Channel Signal
  3. Green = Right Channel Ground
  4. Red = Right Channel Signal
2. Adjust the Cartridge Overhang

Use the included Overhang Gauge to complete the following setting
The Overhang Gauge is the white plastic thingy that came with your turntable.
If you do not have one then either buy one from us for only $5, or borrow one from a friend.
  1. Fit the Overhang Gauge to the Headshell
  2. Line the Stylus Tip up with the notch on the gauge.
  3. If you do this correctly then the cartridge will be slightly off center.
  4. This slight off center orientation is the best compromise due to the fact that as the tonearm tracks along an arc toward the center spindle, this slight variation gives the best total tracking. If the tonearm was a linear (90 degrees) tracking assembly, then you would set it up parallel to the shell head, but the reality of an S - shaped tonearm is that it's tracking angle changes along its course from the beginning of a record to the end. Thus our setting gives the best total tracking for for the entire record disk surface.
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